Unbalance??? Yes you are right I guess, but I did several flywheels now from 1 to 35 holes or just welding 1 little plate, I don't notify any unbalance, I think a broken fin at your fan or mud will give a bigger unbalance as Mark 4x4 says..........

Please take a look at the fan of your engine now, I bet it isn't exactly in the middle............
please tell me if I'm wrong.

And your cranckshaft is it reelly well balancend. A 2cv tuner told me you can't properly balance a 2cv crankshaft because the connecting rods are always in unbalance....


But I'm not holding you back to rebalance your flywheel......

You don't need to put a bolt in. A 8mm hole say about 3mm deep in your flywheel will run great.

You only need to change the two wires at the sensor red to the side of the sensor fixation.


Hi so if I understand correctly - 8mm hole 3mm deep and swap the wires over in the sensor.
8mm hole even easier

I thought about this myself, but it occurred to me that such a small weight will not be able to offset the center of mass of the whole HEAVY flywheel so much. It's probably still within appropriate specifications.

Take a look at this video on my kanal www2cv4x4nl

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOdvMAT6-6o

Drilling a 35-1 pattern in a 2cv flywheel for megasquirt (diy ignition/injection). With 1-2-spark you need only 1 hole but be sure it is 40 to 45 degrees before top dead center......

p.s. your unit is almost finished I will take it out for a testride tomorrow and will pm you furhter details....

Started to make an Schematic of the wires......

will finish it asap.

second version

made a little how to tune 1-2-Spark video for a customer in France today....The unit is tuned for a 2cv turbo now.....



Attachment:


http://youtu.be/c76WSwSPrRA

Then did a quick testdrive,,,, revlimiter at 6500rpm had to test it.

I would be interested in one of your kits i am no computor expert but would it be possible to run your system with some kind of knock sensor so the advance would be always a little retarded from the pinking zone

Theoreticly it is possible but in practice it is very difficult.
A knock sensor is a sort of microphone; it picks up all engine noise, what you have to do is to filter out the noise of knocking, this is for every car diffrent. You've got to have some sort of scoop to visualise all the diffrent noises and isolate the knock noise, this is usually done by the frequence of it. When a noise at a certain frequence is heard by the "microphon" (knocksensor)it has to go to an amplifier wich gives a sign (current) to the microchip and the microchip retards the ignition.

For me at the moment it is not duable (as for lots of aftermarket ignition systems) but hey thats why I came up with the tripple advance-tableswitch!!!!!!!

When you here the engine knocking you can by the touch of a switch choose a diffrent advancetable (ofcours with less advance) and the knocking dissapears, with my unit you can switch between 3 tables, so when it still knocks at the 3. table youre running on water!!!!

you can tune all 3 advance curves by yourself...... Look at the last video, where I'm setting the advance tables (in the right upper corner you see a 1 or 2 or 3 and you can see the advanceboxes change also when switching to another table.

video: http://youtu.be/c76WSwSPrRA
look at around 2.25 there you can see the switch and the diffrent advance curves


If you can give me a knocksensor and amplefier which gives a current when knock occurs I can programm the microchip that it works........

1-2-Spark is still going strong in my car, but I want more.

Start implementing A Map sensor. This means a sensor which messures the airpresure in the inletmanifolt, today I made first mods in the software, I develloped a Map gauge..



0 = a total vacuum
100 = normal airpressure (a 2cv with WOT = wide open throtte gives near 100)

everything above 100 is for turbo- or supercharged cars.

So the mapsensor I have goes to 1.5 bar of boost (a standard engine would be destroit in seconds doing that!!!) my turbo car with standard engine goes as far as 1.2 bar of boost
retarding ignition by more then 14 degrees......

Tried the hardware too, me looking like an idiot sucking and blowing at a hose to see the numbers change at my computer....



But they change meaning it works, but now the hard part is coming; say to the chip what it needs to do wit this numbers....... more advance, less advance and so on....


If this is going to work next is to make advance reacting to oiltempsensor
and then injection is nearby.................. well maybee in another 2 years.....