Hi folks - in my continuing efforts to get my late neighbours 2CV back on the road - the carburettor.
When last used in 2002 the (1988) 2CV was running fine - passed MOT but was a bit shabby.
2012 now, in new hands, much restoration done but would like to start car.
Fresh fuel, overhauled carb, new plugs, good freshly charged battery, new HT leads (really good spark). Good supply of fuel to carb when engine cranked. Fuel entering carb body via jet but no go!
Would a new coil help?
Before removing and dismantling carb (float was stuck up and carb flooding) I noticed that the choke knob appeared seized at the dashboard end.
On further investigation the choke cable attachment point at the carb end is 'fixed' and has no effect on moving the butterfly.
I have a choke knob, choke cable, Solex 26/35 CSIC/SCIC carb, but apparently no method of closing the choke butterfly.
When starting, clutch down, no accelerator pedal, I try to crank it little and often - rather than long spells of churning but still nothing.
I'm new to all things 2CV and only have the rather useless Haynes manual to go on.
There is a photograph of the choke/carb fitment in the manual but it doesn't look anything like mine!
If I knew how I could try to attach a photograph of the carb/choke installation to a post on this site to illustrate the installation.
I am already indebted to other members for much good support and encouragement through these posts, does anybody have any advice?
Many thanks in advance of any help

Barrie,
when you 'reconditioned' the carburettor, did you miss that little spring which pulls the strangler flap across as the fast idle cam is actuated by the choke cable?

Photograph is a bit dark, but you may be able to see how things look.


This is as far as it goes... by slcchassis, on Flickr

Another favourite is to trap the lever in the 'on' position as the carburretor lid is refitted, but that doesn't seem to be the problem in this instance.

Ken

edit: I think there's advice somewhere in Citroen's literature to operate the starter for no more than 10 seconds in a burst, then at least 10 seconds rest.
Feel the starter motor casing and if it's hot, time for a longer rest.

Hi .....heres my '88 2CV showing the choke cable .....


With the choke closed [on]


With the choke open [off]

And a few more pics I've just taken 5 minutes ago....





.....before it just started p155ing down with rain [and I had to put my car back in the garage and dash back indoors]
All pics taken from the L/H side of car.

hth
Terry

Ken and Terry,
Thanks ever so much guys for going to all that trouble. The advice and pics are really useful.
When I took the carb' apart I photographed it first to make sure everything went back where it came from and nothing was left over.
There was no doubt that someone had been there before me, of the four nuts holding the carb to the manifold the one behind the oil filler was missing (I can see why it's a bu##er to fit) and on further dismantling no paper gaskets either side of the insulator block.
Rather than remove the oil filler I made a special spanner (I'm sure a route thousands of 2CV'ers have previously gone down).
I'm thinking now that I've simply recreated a previous problem by studiously following what was there.
Time to have another look at it.
Thanks again guys, I hope one day I can somehow reciprocate.

Dear Barrie J,
Apart from the previous issue, please keep an eye on your fuel hose before the carb.
There is the hot exhaust pipe just below...

Barrie, if there's an air leak betwixt carb and manifold, it can make it very hard to start. And, if you do manage, it'll be very hard to keep running below a very fast tick-over.

Are you confident that you've make good the carb/manifold join?

Are there any signs at all of it 'catching'? Any coughs, splutters, or anything else? Or is it just completely 'dead'?

Looking at your first post, the car was a runner when last used - so in theory it should fire up now even if you have recreated an existing problem. Eg: if the choke isn't closing, I'd still expect a few pumps of the throttle - which'll squirt neat fuel down the manifold - to allow the car to cough a fair bit, and even fire up with repeated pumps. It's weird that nothing at all seems to be happening.

Thanks ever so much guys for your continued encouragement.
Certainly the car was running when laid up.
When I went to restart it, I could not operate the choke (reasons then unknown) and fuel was running out of the carb' body (which suggested to me that the float was sticking).
I removed the air filter, photographed installation, disconnected fuel pipe (no clip in place), disconnected choke cable and proceeded to remove carb' body (noting that only three nuts held it in place, someone had ommitted the 'difficult' one behind the oil filler pipe).
On removing the carb' body I discovered no paper gasket between the manifold and spacer block, nor between block and carb'.
I removed carb', cleaned externally and internally, blew through jets with compressed air (25psi), reset float and re assembled to the manifold with new paper gaskets and adding the fourth nut.
Petrol now sorted out, jet operates with accelerator pedal - still no choke.
Check installation against my photos and those kindly (invaluably) submitted by your good selves.
Choke mounting, cam/lever arm, butterfly all in correct relative positions - still no hope of operating choke knob!!!!
At last I realise that pin/stud upon which choke operating cam/lever is mounted is seized in carb body.
Currently soaking in WD40 will report on progress.
Thanks again for all your support - at least community still survives in some areas!

Blew through jets with 25 psi?

I normally do 4 x that

A friend has a carb cleaning file which if used un carefully can increase the jet size...

Total thread hijack but thanks for the pics they just helped me fix a small problem I was having

Thanks to all the above for their help, advice and support.
Strangely, the lever (operated by the choke cable) and attached by a bolt to the lower carb body had somehow welded (maybe a bit of exageration) itself to the carb body, similarly, the bolt appeared to be seized.
The bolt has very slim 'flats' for a spanner to bear on and I certainly didn't want to introduce any degree of heat - copious amounts of WD40, patience and a quality (well fitting) spanner eventually triumphed.
Choke was freed off, re assembled with Copper Ease and after a few turns the engine fired and continues to run/idle just fine.
Weird, because, I've owned cars in the past that would fire/start without choke, bit of revving perhaps - ah well it all adds to the sum of my knowledge.
Thanks again folks.