I do suggest using tool no 6 to drive the bush home but not to lign the bush up. I don’t remember completely but I think I measured tool no 6 and found it smaller in diameter than the original king pin. Using the original king pin will insure that the top bush can’t tilt but yes if tool no 6 is the exact same diameter, no reason why it can’t be used.
I think that tool no 6 is 16 mm in diameter and therefor can't lign up the bush correctly.

I must have misread the comment on using heat on the arm

Viking,
16.8mm the last time I dropped a caliper on the one I've used for the last 15 years or so...

Maybe someone had a bad day at the lathe, if one went down as far as 16mm?

ken.

I just measured tool 6 with a micrometer to be 16.85 mm.
That is why I ask DIY folks to use the old pin. It is 17 mm and give better protection against tilting.

So how have you got on with the thrust washers? I've always assumed that the thrust washers were made slightly oversize to compensate for any wear in the bottom of the arm or the corresponding surface on the steering knuckle. Sometimes you'll find that a circular patch has been worn away (in the top of the knuckle, IIRC), so if you put the thrust washer assembly into that recess before you offer the knuckle up to the arm, I've found it will go back easier. If the washers are still too thick, you could reduce the thickness of the plain ones by rubbing them on a bit of emery paper on a flat surface, or some grinding paste on a piece of glass. Clean them afterwards! Otherwise, I've used one of the old plain washers in the past.

Oversized king pins are now in stock, 17,1 and 17,2 mm. Made in Poland, no worries

I've got my first set of kingpins to do some stage soon, for a friend - ECAS tools purchased at the Int'l, along with new pins.

I had been feeling a bit "Umm, why did I volunteer?", but that looks like an explanation clear enough for even me. Wish me luck!

Half the work is proper tools and you got it.
Take you time and enjoy it.

Cheers

Tee hee
yup done on the Hollismobile hours before the start of Spa - that was a particularly bad one too!

Ive done it numerous times have a vid on my phone of me dropping a KP thru the arm, and then a weld on max with a 130a mig wire speed turned down and it was a "hammer" fit. By varying the ammount of weld you can shape the hole, Russ's one above was slack at the top and the bottom but not too bad in the middle so a bead was put on round the top and the bottom. You have to wait till its stone cold before re fitting.

Just heating the boss wont work its the shrinkage of the weld bead that heps pull the old metal.

Oversize KP ideal but sometimes you dont have 3 weeks to wait
Sean

Thanks for your PM. I will answer here for others to benefit.

The oversize king pin are very well made. I do not know the quality of the steel but I have been guarantied its quality. They have been tested by me and in Australia, so far no worries. The bushes are included and also made of steel. No need to ream the old bushes, most DIY don’t have a reamer, therefore new bushes are included.
The price is http://www.2cviking.eu/catalog/index.ph ... anguage=en

Hopefully you can reuse all the other bits. If not we can supply them individually, just ask.

At the end of the day, an oversized king pin is much cheaper than replacing the arm + we should preserve the old stock of swings arm and not replace them due to a worn out king pin housing.

Postage to the UK is 5,80 €

This is a good explaination and pretty much exactly as i do it

Only one problem i've had is the top cap not sealing. I've recently done 5 Kingpin changes and only got 2 to seal (and dad did one of those) one poping up and leaking grease and others have had grease just coming past the cap, this is a problem as it's not greasing the kingpin in the right places as it should.

What am i doing wrong?