Hey Guys, ive got a 1984 Beachcomber, recently restored to MOT worthy condition. soon found out form a friend that it got a certificate, but defianitely shouldnt have. I have a bit of corrosion on the bottom of the N/S front chassis. Its quite close to the front (Engine mounts and where all the weight is placed) and so i dont know whether i should replace the entire (original not galvanised) chassis with a new galvanised one, or can you weld new parts of the chassis on? I know this is risky, but im a poor 17 year old. hahaa.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, tah!

Oh and ill try and get some photo's up soon.

Cheers
Jack

Hi Jack,

How much do you know about the cars?

Have a look at the wing valence panel, between the wing and the bonnet:



Do you have any cracks or splits in the paint work along that middle bend in the metal. The paint should all be smooth. If its cracking or splitting along that bend you might have issues.

You can get cracks in the paint in that area by people leaning on the panel not realising how thin and bendy it is.

yes, this is true. However if there's no cracks there at all we know the chassis legs are secure. If there are cracks he can go on to do the 'axel stands bouncing' test which would indicate chassis or careless mechanics.

Jack you emntioned it was near the very front of the chassis - your area of worry is where the 'legs' that the engine sits on joing the main chassis in front of the bulkhead.

checking the gearstick is in the correct postition in neutral is easier

assuming that the box top lever is in the right place, it can vary the knurled bit by up to 10mm

Best thing is get along to your local club and get someone who knows what to look for to have a quick look. But basically any corrosion or patching on the side rails any holing on the side web any signs of corrosion on the lower skin any ripples on the inside of the chassis leg any ripples on the top skin( cab floor) of the chassis.

alignment of the A panel shown above and the body on the line that runs from the bonnet hinge down to the wing bolt..that panel gap should be even.

any grinding or binding of the steering and difficulty opening the bonnet

the engine falling on your toes

all point to new chassis time

Sean

sam,
is a description of this 'axle stand bouncing test' available?
If it involves raising the front end of the car, placing axle stands underneath the chassis at the line of the front axle and jumping up and down on the front bumper, it's normal for there to be a certain amount of (momentary) deflection of the front longerons under those conditions.

Note that the design of the clips holding the A panels in place is such that movement relative to the bulkhead can be accommodated.
A much simpler design of clip could have been used if this was not required.

Of course, the longerons should return to their original position after the test, however if the chassis has been seriously weakened by corrosion, this may also prove to be a quick way of precipitating a 'chassis collapso' moment.

Any queries on this should be directed to Roy, as this was a test which he carried out on one of my chassis back in 1995...

ken.

Where do you live jack?

Hey Guys,

Cheers for all the information, no the A panel is fine on both sides, but without owning a previous 2cv to compare it to, i cant defianitely say it lines up correctly. I havent tried the axle bounce tesr, i could if i really wanted to though, i suppose.

I have to add that the chassis is completely original, getting on to be 30 years old now. And may not have been kept to a satisfactory rust proofing standard over the years, and so if the front corrosion was bad, would a replacement chassis justify itself in time and cost. When compared to possibly cutting and welding a new patch on??? If someone could answer that, id be greatful.

Oh and i live in North Devon, know anyone close by?? I do know that the 2cv Workshop in Callington is close (about an hour away), so if all else fails i could drive to him??

Cheers

Jack

If the problem area is around where the front axle bolts on (and it usually is), then this area is under a lot of stress, and to repair it satisfactorily would need the bodyshell and axle removing, in which case you might as well replace it. Show us a good photo of the problem and we might be able to put your mind at rest, or tell you that it needs further investigation.