Yep. It's been done, and I can officially say that it is running the best I've ever known it to. No pinking so far (ok only done 30 miles), but in terms of driving I really didn't expect things to change, but it seems to pick up miilllles better in 2nd and 3rd, generally seems quieter and all round smoother. I'm not suggesting that 123 is better in anyway than well set up points, it's probably just that mine were set up proper shit or there was something up with the weights? Oh, and he also set up the tappets and the compression evened itself out abit. Anyway deffo no major lack of power, so I'm not worrying.

p.s. I proper need to learn to do all this shizz myself.

Lil'Louis,
how many guesses have I got as to *whose* car it was?

Also wonder where I should send the invoice for consultancy, for time spent on the phone when I should have been welding, etc., etc. ...

Just as well that Alan M checked those 123 units with a strobe, James would have been deafened with the pinking at 50 degrees maximum advance.

ken

James, all this sort of stuff is easy, read the haynes manual, and try it,
setting up points is as easy as changing a plug once you have marked the flywheel where to set the timing (i marked fly wheel and starter to make two reference points) you want it 4 teeth after firing point? i cant remeber, but anyway someone will confirm,
easy as pie

James,
left side 'horn' of the engine casing is better, as there's less chance of parallax interfering with accuracy.
A pointer screwed onto the engine casing makes things even easier.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30132857@N ... hotostream

Slightly over 7 teeth for an 8.5:1 engine, just under for 9.0:1...

ken

ahh thanks ken
well it was bell housing and starter motor i used with tip ex

i think what i describe i use is what you describe? not sure

No, quite right. But it will affect whether or not the thing pinks under load.

garage 5/6

You're going to have a busy weekend doing all these cars Sean, what with the whole team consisting of you and two drivers.

which bits wear, what do you look for, how do you test them and what's an acceptable state?

just to keep the whole thing mechanical rather than conjecture

we had been doing some stuff on bob weights and how the different makes affect the advance curve and what modifications did what to the engine.

there was no conclusive outcome ........mainly because the dyno broke.