Subarupete, there are a few threads on paint in this section, but the gist of it (as I recall - because I am intending to do this myself...) is, the easiest, most reasonably priced, least toxic, etc. etc. paint finish to use is cellulose. It's very forgiving, can be cut and polished if necessary (tho' hopefully won't be...), and is well priced.
Old Nail (I think) also brought our attention to an epoxy primer (NOT the 2-pack paint stuff that'll kill you dead) which is high-build (so covers smoothly), highly adhesive, seals metal surfaces thoroughly to prevent corrosion, etc. I haven't yet used it myself, but do intend to.
I believe this is the stuff:
http://www.rust.co.uk/filestore/epoxy.pdfI plan to use this primer followed by cellulose as my top coat for the reasons outlined above. The main drawback with celli is that it's a bit soft and easily chipped. However, everything else about it is pretty much a plus.
I understand the latest water-based paints are very impressive, although they do need a lacquer overcoat to give them a shine. And they are pricy.. That's my understanding of them - I've no actual experience.
Should you DIY this? Absolutely. It's a blast - hugely rewarding. If you are at all practical - and you are - then you'll master it enough to get a decent finish in no time. It needs confidence more than anything - hesitancy or nervousness can make you over-react and spoil the finish (too thick or too thin!). The main 'tip' I can give is to LOOK carefully at what you are doing when laying down each coat and
respond to what you see. Have good lighting from a few directions (although a bright daylight-lit garage is good), and
study the paint as it lands on the panel from the gun; when you make your next pass, half overlapping the previous one, look at the finish. If it looks wet and shiny, you're doing well - but make sure you aren't laying it on
too thick so it could run! However, good chance it'll look sandy or rough or orange-peely, in which case lay another coat on top
immediately to wet and thicken it more. How fast you make each 'pass' will determine the thickness & finish of the coat - as well as, of course, the settings of the gun. Additional coats can be applied after the previous one has flashed-off thoroughly - 20 minutes or so? (I think...)
There's tons of other info; make sure the floor is well vacuumed! And immediately prior to spraying, tack-rag the surface to remove all settled dust. The finish from cellulose can be superb, but it
will show up a less than perfect finish below - so preparation is key. If using cellulose, make sure the thinners you use for the top coats are good quality. Cheap thinners can be used for cleaning the equipment...
You can either buy 2nd-hand equipment which will mean you can get better quality stuff, or even buy new as it isn't cripplingly expensive - adequate compressors can be had
from around £100, and an adequate gun for - oooh - £40+? (Again, I think it's worth trying to get a good 2nd-hand Devilbiss for £40 rather than a new Clarke or similar for the same money.) If it's a one-of job, you should be able to sell on 2nd-hand equipment for what you paid for it. Good chance you'll hold on to it, tho'...