Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove these 44mm nuts from the rear stub axle? My cars been sitting a long time but these nuts are TIGHT! I`ve already broken my breaker bar--looks like it might be time to take out the cutting torch. Any suggestions appreciated and thanks, Paul

You have relieved the staked section, haven't you?

Other than that, a bigger bar. Was the one you broke 3/4" drive?

As Adrian says,
a 3/4" bar is advisable, something like this.
< http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sliding-3-4-break ... _500wt_949 >

Jack the car up, support the arm on an axle stand and step on the bar.
The nut will have been torqued to something like 250 to 290 ft.lbs., so that should give you an idea of how long the lever arm needs to be.

If the nuts have only been used once, swapping them side to side should give you a second surface for staking them.

ken.

Those "stake" tabs appear to have been driven into the axle slot and I believe thats my problem. Tried to drill them out but not much success---I`ve ordered new nuts---wondering if I might cause some damage to the wheel bearing/or ? if I torch/cut them out? A bigger breaker bar won`t budge them. Not many options-thanks for your responses--any other ideas? Paul

Definitely. That's the whole reason that's done - to stop the nut from rotating, no matter what. You need to debutcher the staking, to allow the nut to be rotated.

I had a similar problem with a nut on a Saab gearbox chain-drive. The staking was _very_ nearly undone, but not quite. It was enough to defeat a windywench. Once the staking was undone, the nut just span off.

Without the tab unfurled from its locking hole you won't turn it with a four meter scaffolding pole (I've tried).

Once that tab is removed though a 3/4" drive breaker bar, and jumping up and down on the end eventually tends to take the nut off. I omit replacing the nut and torque them up as much as possible when replacing them.

Strangely enough, I've never bothered to relieve the staking on rear hub nuts.

Anyone care to take a guess at how many rear brake jobs I've done over the last 25 years?

The most recent was last week on a 1987 2CV, which still had the factory fitted covers incorporated into the bearing retaining rings.
As expected, the linings were well into the process of separating from the shoes and only the leading shoes were moving (slightly) when the brake pedal was depressed.
Its last MOT had been 'achieved' in the Halifax area...

The removal tool was the same as always, a 3/4" bar ( & socket) similar to that which I recommended earlier.

ken

last Halifax car I saw ( or is it Bradford now) the pedal went to the floor unless you pumped it

<thinks "hot dinners">

That's my experience too, I never bother to unstake them. Being delicate I do occasionally reach for "Bertha" the 3/4 drive windy gun, rather than having to lean on a long bar......