Sam whats the other side of the shocker like is there just enough threads for the nut to hang on to or is there a few threads outside of the nut?

<looks at stack of CDs in "To rip, then charity shop" pile...>

I believe blaupunked have a very bad name for being cheap. It's amazing the difference the head unit makes for sound quality. Great speakers are only great if you feed them with a great signal.

Cheers Ken, that looks right, do we know if Ecas have them?



The shock itself is fine. All that's missing from the stud is the last probably 10-15mm of thread that's stuck in the mount on the chassis. There's about 8mm of thread on the stud, I'd thought about seeing if it would screw in?

In any car - doubly so in a 2cv - IMHO it's t'other way round...

Once you get away from the utter junk, I don't think there's a lot of difference in real live perceivable sound quality from the head unit, although there's certainly plenty in the user experience and build quality.

I wasn't worried about the state of the shock but about the amount of thread available for the nut

measure what length the proper side is (short) and what depth the hole is with the bit of pin stuck at the bottom you might be lucky!

That was pretty much what I was getting at! Although thinking about it, the idea of cleaning the hole up with a tap is probably a good one, as if that broken stud was a loose fit in the hole, it will have been hammering against the threads for x number of years.

I wonder whether someone has bought a M12-M14 stud, when they needed M14-M14, and chosen to make it 'fit' at the damper end, and bodge the chassis end?

Looking at your photo again, Sam, is that stud definitely broken, or does it look like it may have been cut? Might explain why you found it so easy to put a drill down the hole, if there's nothing actually in there!

So Inspired was I by James Wallace that I thought I'd see about getting Hetty's dash off and painting it.

This was a huge mistake.

A wise man with a beard once told me not to go looking for trouble, that if it aint broke don't fix it and not to go digging around. I promptly ignored this sound advice. Which was stupid.

So on finally removing the dash and having recovered myself from the shock of the prompt ejaculation of electrical cables that ensued. I was faced with this:



Yes, behold the soldered connections on the back of the fuel gauge which had been working fine, which can now be said not to be working given the live feed is no longer attached due to the removing of the dash... (which wouldn't come off anyway as the thread for the parking lights is seized on the switch).

Having started this job as it was getting dark I then faffed around using my phone as (the world's most expensive single LED) torch.

Not having a soldering iron on me (should it even be soldered?? and having relaised that my other 2 A series don't have working fuel gauges I did the sensible thing and duck taped over the live feed. Who needs a fuel gauge?!

Obviously the dash now refused to go back in - I deduced because of the speedo cable. Which I pulled on. And pulled it out of the gear box. From whence it will not go back in.
To cut short a potentially long thread of fail. Hetty's dash is not going to be painted. The fuel gauge is broken. The speedo may/may not be working, I won't know till I get her on a road.

I should probably get on and fix that shock absorber.

I guess that's my lunch hour bollocksed tomorrow then...

We could've told you that...



Would that've been Ken H?

I'm starting to sound repetitive here, aren't I? "I never had the dash off..."

Sorry I have wrecked a few!

I'm hoping that I just need to fiddle with the end of the cable at the gear box. Not fussed about the fuel gauge really.