Some poor understanding of how it all works how does cutting off the friction band alter anything??

Take a normal spring to the spring manufacturer and say" i want one X times stiffer" and they will work it out

ive a set of the 170% on the road car and it makes the ride crap! cornering is fun but dont know how long the kidneys will hold out

the racer is on 200%(IIRC i just welded them in) and its basically a go cart no noticable suspension movement at all
Sean
Where did that vv come from?

Max Page. Graphic designer.

The bands are cut off to allow two long (230mm) springs to fit in the spring can.
If the ride is crap try greasing the knife edges and lubricating the spring/cans with caster oil

Thx for the Info Pete, nice post.

If the rear springs you have are 230mm long that is a 60mm increase in length if i am not mistaken... http://www.2cvstuff.com/Files/2CV/208162/434-3%20Suspension%20Unit.pdf
WHy is this done? increased spring rate? ALso, why the extra increase in wire diam on rear spring?

That's what i thought But all the places i have spoken with required the same info:
* Length of spring under full compression in car (on bump stops)
* Can springs be made longer? an increase of about 20% can be achieved by 1mm in the gauge but after that they will need to be lengthened.
* What is more important, ID or OD

Anyone have any info on anti noise coating people use on the inside of the spring cans?
Where can i get the Ami 8 spring buffer Rubbers from?

Cheers
Harley

Pete,

If your 4x4 is set up similar to mine then you have Acdyane geometry knife edges on the rear arms and hence longer springs. This way you can load the car up and it does not drop like a standard 2CV does.

On My 4x4 with the spring guide plate and the Acdyane springs installed the ride is great and I can chuck in whatever I want in the back and the car will not drop.

To counteract noise I just chucked loads of grease on the guide plate and it they move quietly now.

I'll pst pics of my set up over the weekend.

Mark
Front is std 2cv, back is LB Arms which are based on std 2CV???.
Grease is a solution but Caster oil is more friendly to the drive!

Pete,

The LB rears have the modified knife edges otherwise on Raid Poronkusema the back of our 2CV would have been dragging on the ground especially with the weight of it.

Uprated springs and modified arm geometry determine the ride height.
Knife Edges and Eye Bolt are standard,

Hi folks,
Isn't this topic drifting away from Harley's original question just a little?
Afair, he wanted uprated springing and slightly lowered ride height, whereas the design of the springing for the 4x4s is influenced by the requirement for extra high ride height, including such details as rear arms with repositioned droop stops, etc.

If only a 10% increase in spring rate was acceptable, all that would be needed would be to fit some rear springs in the front end of the cans (around 20mm shorter and about 10% stiffer than front springs) and wind the rear rods out as far as practicable.

Lowering the rear end of the car increases the 'effective' spring rate anyway, since the rear suspension's geometry results in a rising rate.
As the rear arms are moved upwards, the lever arm of the rods increases.

Btw, removing the lining from the compression cups means that the springs _will_ rub against the inside of the canisters, since that lining is there to centre the cups.
The reason it was asbestos based was to prevent it wearing away, not to ensure steady sales of castor, or sunflower, oil.

ken.

Harley,
only just noticed this.
If I understand correctly, you're assuming that lengthening a spring will make it stronger?
However, if the wire diameter remains the same, shortening a spring (reducing the number of active coils?) increases the spring rate...

ken.