good to here petter

as i was trying to change "properly" and failed

Viking,
doesn't it depend on where and how the car is used?
If the owner lives in a city, there's usually much more 'stopping and starting' involved in a journey than if the car is mostly used out in the country or on open roads.

For instance, in the 35 mile journey which I make most often nowadays, first gear may only used twice and both of those are in the first 400 yards, leaving my yard and then out of the village onto the A63.

I've found more than a few gearbox lids with the 3rd to 4th gear section of spring thoroughy chewed, although some of those may have been used in racing...

ken.

[quote="2CViking"]I wouldn't worry about it. Most springs are less worn on the 4th gear side as the 1st and reverse is used much more. So James keep doing what you are doing, it won't make any difference. The Spring is not used between 2nd and 3rd since the shift is not sideways. In 1st and reverse the lever always comes from neutral.

As you say, city folks would hardly ever reach 4th. Just count how many times you stop and go. Country folks travels for long distances and may stay in 4th for long periods of time.

ill do a report of what gears i use most on the way to work

ill forget and probbaly cant be arsed

So will the spring fail and if so, what would happen? Cheers

Excuse my ignorance... What's involved in preloading 4th gear?

Whilst in third, foot OFF the clutch, twist the gear lever clockwise and push it in. It's now pre loaded. To change to 4th, stick your foot on the clutch and push the gear stick forward

push it in? no one said about pushing it in sir
i just twist and then put my foot on clutch i dont push until foot on clutch

well?
(I couldn't sleep last night)



i just drive it 3rd to 4th - just kind of falls in when you put some clockwise twist on it after neutral

could Kens worn spring be a case of poorly aligned gearbox top selector link putting too much pressure on the spring?

Sean

The clutch isn't the relevant bit. The twisting before the neutral plane is the relevant bit. The selector fork notches won't line up until that point, so you're pushing the top of the lever sideways, but the bottom can't move sideways, so the spring takes that movement - you then push the lever forwards, with the spring still taking that sideways load - wear on the spring results.