hoping to get it motd in the next 3 weeks
been trying to get it to start better,although it has been not driven for the last 2+years

put some fresh fuel in
2 new plugs and the leads look fine
its already had the electronic ignition fitted b4 i bought it

basically when its running then its fine,when you start,it wont start on full choke,half or none,it will spin,start,and run then pop back and stall
repeat about 10 times,then it runs,if you push the accelarator though too soon it will again spit and cut out
wait about a min or 2 then it will suddenly rev fine and tick over no problem
once warm it starts 1st try

not checked the timing yet as ive not done much on these so wouldnt even know where the timing marks are

also how do you tell which is warm etc for the 2 black vent controls as theres no marks on the dash

thanks
matt

Try this.

Put an original ignition unit in...... look how it behaves then...
When it behaves like it should there is something wrong with your electronic ignition.......

Then take a close look at your electronic ignition if it is wired properly, does it have good ground (could be the reson why it doesn't work properly at the start, but afterwards it runs fine)

(at the upper side at the dashboard are only for ventilation (only could air from outside the car) it isn't connected to your heater system!!



disconnect a hose from the heatexchanger at your engine, put the heater operation in a outer position, look at your heatexchanger, when your opening is closed then this would be off, when it is open (you can look inside the heatexchanger then it is hot ) mark it with red nail varnish, so everyone nows whats cold and whats the hot side.

(hope you have a grirlfriend/wife) but your mother's will also do.......

hiya
problem is i dont have the original
this was on the car what i bought it

the 2 heater controls go to cables on the top of the heat exchangers to the flaps
i can probably pull the hoses off but i thought they must be quite straight forward as theres only 2 controls
i might hang on until i drive it for the mot and see if they are how as they are set now,both up the top

cheers
matt

well bit of an upadate
spoke to a 2cv mechanic who has siad he has had several cars with start up problems due to the 123 ignition,same symptoms as mine,all of them fine when back to points
Ive remade the supply cable so i know its all ok connection wise
last thing im trying is a solid state regulator ,as the mechanical one wont kick in until the revs rise,which of course you cant do until its running on both cylinders.
I might have to go back to points if this doesnt cure it.

1-2-spark

I have read the early ones of my systems have a fault and can be reprogrammed?
Im using it again now everyday and dont have a spare car so cant take it off the road to get it sent off somewhere for repair

Mattt,
if it's been standing for over 2 years, hope that you put plenty of fresh fuel into the tank, as that 'vintage' stuff will have lost most of its flavour by now and will probably be closer to paraffin than it is to petrol.

Also worth checking that the strangler for the choke is working as it should.
There's a small spring which operates the flap and it's prone to failure.
When that happens, the choke will be ineffective.

The spring is over to the right in this photograph, underneath the spindle for the choke flap.


This is as far as it goes... by slcchassis, on Flickr

ken

It's just a normal points box. Nick one off any handy 2cv.



One's hot/cold, one's feet/windscreen. You should be able to figure out which is which and which way in about three seconds of playing.

Sorry should have been clearer
the original post was 3 years ago when i first got it back on the road

Ive been using it for the last 3 years now,i drive it everyday from about september until april normally
The choke works fine,it actually will flood the car if you pull it more than halfway,it starts every morning and runs fine on half choke for about a mile then it ticks over fine no choke at all

Ive gone through the car slowly from one end to the other and even had the heads off and relapped as they were leaking.
New coil .leads . plugs , timing checked,tappets adjusted
It runs fine,drived really well and I have no problems except this cold start/1 cylinder runs then it eventually kicks in.

I was over the garage fitting new discs last night and mentioned it and the Rick said hes had a few cars in with 123 ignitions doing this,changing back to points cures it

Ive intenet searched and found a mention of this,but only on early versions and the fact they can be repaired ?

either that or i guess its points or another 123 or an alternative set up