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 Sticking choke. 
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Aircooled Idiot
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
yer quite! its amazing, although i dont know if im illetarate or something (clearly not as im typing this) but i cant understand it, its only numbers and pictures i geuss its still a god send ;) but writing would be better, anyway im going to stop winging now
edit its a parts catalogue... muppet i am :roll:

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1988 2cv 652cc
1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 3000cc runs on Bio Diesel
2004 Toyota Landcruiser Amazon 4200cc runs on Bio Diesel
1998 Daihatsu Hijet 1300cc
2005 Susuki Bandit 650cc


Last edited by J-dub on October 25th, 2010, 10:45 am, edited 1 time in total.



October 25th, 2010, 10:43 am
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
Alkie wrote:
Wow twofifty AZU - didn't know that existed, thats a godsend!


There is a lot of useful stuff on there. Workshop manuals too.


October 25th, 2010, 10:44 am
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
Jameswallace wrote:
yer quite! its amazing, although i dont know if im illetarate or something (clearly not as im typing this) but i cant understand it, its only numbers and pictures i geuss its still a god send ;) but writing would be better, anyway im going to stop winging now
edit its a parts catalogue... muppet i am :roll:


James, this is the bit with the most useful info, in English, with easy to read diagrams, its like the holy grail to me:

http://www.2cvstuff.com/Monthly%20Downl ... 08161.html

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October 25th, 2010, 11:19 am
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Agony Aunt - You have a car problem? Speak to Ken

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Post Re: Sticking choke.
Alkie,
26/35 is Solex's reference for this carb, earlier versions of it had choke sizes of 21mm & 24mm, with later versions being 18mm and 26mm.
That parts manual only lists details for the 21-24 version, not the 18-26 version and there are quite a few small but significant differences in their construction...

A 6mm bolt about 30mm long makes a suitable replacement for the part which is missing on your carb.

On that drawing, there's a line showing where the ball bearing and spring fit into the carb body.
All that retains them in position is the pressed steel plate (fast idle cam/choke actuating plate) shown in the group of components labelled '18'.

There's usually no need to remove the carb to change any of the jets.

ken.



Alkie wrote:

I know which one you mean, its clearly visible in Old Nail's photo. When the choke is fully off it can't slip out at all. Obviously I'd like this part and want my carb to be complete, but I take it I'd have to find a second hand carb. I might do that anyway, get a second hand 26/35, as mine is a 18/26, I can't find any diagrams or info about it on the web. How different is the 18/26 to the 26/35?

I'm still confused as to where the ball bearing and spring goes, when I take the carb off later this week to change the jet I'll have a proper look. I'm half tempted to ask Father Christmas for a new carb, considering the miles I'm putting on the van. I can see it as part "19" on the diagram, but can't see what its actually acting on or being held in by.


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October 25th, 2010, 11:53 am
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
ken wrote:
Alkie,
26/35 is Solex's reference for this carb, earlier versions of it had choke sizes of 21mm & 24mm, with later versions being 18mm and 26mm.
That parts manual only lists details for the 21-24 version, not the 18-26 version and there are quite a few small but significant differences in their construction...

A 6mm bolt about 30mm long makes a suitable replacement for the part which is missing on your carb.

On that drawing, there's a line showing where the ball bearing and spring fit into the carb body.
All that retains them in position is the pressed steel plate (fast idle cam/choke actuating plate) shown in the group of components labelled '18'.

There's usually no need to remove the carb to change any of the jets.

ken.


ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh it all becomes clear! I was just looking at the manual that twofiftyAZU posted and slowly the brain cogs started turning, as well as the fore/aft positioning of the numbers on the carb body...thankyou Ken (again)

I'd like to take the carb off, as I'm worried about losing the jet as I withdraw it, I suppose the worst that can happen is it drops into the float bowl.

So I take it that the fast idle cam just rests on the ballbearing to just smooth out its operation...it would explain why it dropped out when the AA man took the carb lid off.

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October 25th, 2010, 12:27 pm
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
apologies Old Nail, I've just realised I've somewhat hijacked the thread, as you where... :oops:

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October 25th, 2010, 12:43 pm
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
You're asking the same questions that I would have, so in effect you're doing the typing and I'm sitting here learning. :D

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October 25th, 2010, 12:54 pm
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
:lol:

...and we're all bowing down to Ken, the gatekeeper to the font of knowledge...!

Seriously this is great to be able to get all this info quickly, feels wrong to get it for free!

One quick question, anyone know how best to drain the float chamber of fuel when working on the carb? As Ken suggested I can leave the carb on to get at the jet, but removing the plug at the rear will cause fuel spillage, do we just siphon it out or soak it up with a rag????

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October 25th, 2010, 1:04 pm
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
Alkie wrote:
soak it up with a rag????


I must admit, rightly or wrongly this is how i do it... Actually i used blue roll (the paper stuff) - worked for me!

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October 25th, 2010, 1:15 pm
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Post Re: Sticking choke.
Alkie wrote:
:lol:
Seriously this is great to be able to get all this info quickly, feels wrong to get it for free!


Then go on the 2cvGB forum and ask on there, where one guy in particular agrees with you. ;) 'Coincidentally' he happens to make a living out of it.

There's not much petrol in the float bowl so kitchen roll sucks it up nicely.

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October 25th, 2010, 1:17 pm
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