I've got a megascuirt (KDFI) in my car; first without a turbo an now (with a Smart) turbo see my topic.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1100

I don't think there will ever be a ready to run kit with ignition and injection for the 2cv.

This KDFI will cost you 249 Euro's and 8 Euro's for a box to fit it in.

Then you need a VR sensor to pick up the tach signal for the ignition and injection.

I drilled 35 holes in my flywheel and it is working perfect.
http://www.youtube.com/user/www2cv4x4nl ... OdvMAT6-6o

It is so much better then a 123 ignition, you can do everithing with it to optimize your spark.

Next you need a tps throttle positioning sensor witch will cost 35 euro's

You can put this on the existing axle at your carburretor.

You need also 2 sensors to messure your inlet air temperature and the hot air behind the cylinder this will cost you about 20 euro's each.


At last you need two injectors (it is better then monopoint injection) each as

close as possible at the inlet valve, there are plenty pictures at the net.


New injectors will set you back for about 200 euro's but all stuff from above you can find at the scrapyaerd for about 50 euro's.......

It will take about 50 houres to install everything and then you can drive of and tune it.

when you do it like this you can drive it original and at megasquirt, just as you like it.



I started with the ignition, and when that works, you can do injection. When ignition fails you can still put the cable back from your original ignition and drive on.

(I NEVER NEEDED TO DO THIS). Megasquirt or in my case KDFI works great.

Then you try to do injection, when it doesn't work put your petrol hose into the carb and drive of original.

So when everything is working fine and you tune it good (takes a good day of driving) your millage will be better about 10 to 30%, but because you will drive faster and go off like a "rocket" every time it will be the same as original.

Then when every thing works, put the carb away and get some throttle bodies, a compressor a turbo, big bore , bmw motorcycle, gs(a) subaru 1.8 or a 2 liter, you can run everything with this ecu.

You can buy other ecu's but they will cost (much) more and will only do the same trick.

What is 'KDFI'? Is it the same as megasquirt, but by a different manufacturer?

Nice Post LPGO

I run a multi-point efi (MPI) using megasquirt with 123 ignition, it's like a completely different engine, engine response is greatly improved, wheel spin at take off needs some getting used to (improved torque, but no figures to back it up), top end speed is still similar. Next engine will be Megasquirt ignition control.

Like LPGO i have/had my setup so that i could switch back to an original setup on the side of the road. But after using it for over a year you realise it is not required, except a consideration on raid.

Single-point injection (SPI) is a lot easier to install then MPI, and can be done in stages to assure trouble shooting etc.

Megasquirt/KDFI is surely the cheapest/best option, many debates over this, it is enhanced. Google it for those interested.

I doubt there will be an economical 'bolt on' efi solution, it would only ever be SPI and if you did a custom SPI using Megasquirt/KDFI i bet after a short time you would upgrade to MPI, which would be easy and a less daunting way to jump straight into a MPI setup;)

With MPI, you require new fuel lines/return lines and a modified inlet manifold. These guys (http://2cv-performances.com/index.php) had some nice looking inlet manifolds but ran on old mechanical K-Jetronic technology, looks like they are discontinued...

to much information imo, sry

Harley

Apart from fuel lines, there'd not be a lot of difference in installing single-point to multi-point injection - and big advantages in efficiency, especially given how long the intake manifold runners are on a 2cv.

Single throttle body, absolutely - dual would add a lot of complication to the throttle linkage.

KDFI = A German gay took a Megasquirt, looked at it, converted the print layout so that you can use it in European cars, with all the right goodies inside
fabricates it SMD, so you don't need to solder anything, there are 2 version 1
with a box and plugs ready to run 389 euro's and one where you need to solder a plug and putinto a box. for 249 euro's.

see http://www.k-data.org/pages/index.php/page.60/kdFi.html

Some people say it is a rip off from Megasquirt so.....

You can run it on Megasquirt software...

You can download the Megatune or tunerstudio software for free (as most of the other ECU manufacturers) and play a little bit with it so you can learn how you can tune a car without buying the ECU.

With all this sensible technical info I'm starting to get tempted.

haha, im managed to not say anything when i spotted that on!

Go for!

Lots of good info out there now, much more than you actually need.
I would use KDFI if i where to start from scratch, begin with Throttle Body Injection (TBI), but as toomany2cvs said, the length of the inlet manifold limits some efficiency e.g. throttle response, fuel vaporisation. But still better than a carby, delivers the correct amount of fuel across the rev range and infinitely tunable. Can be used with points or 123 Ignition, with the option for full ignition control in the future.

It can be a lot of extra work + cost running the high pressure MPI fuel and return lines, 45 psi for MPI vs 10-20 psi for TBI, probably more like 7psi for a 2cv... Other advantage of TBI is only needing to fabricate a throttle body adapter plate and not modifying the inlet manifold, although will need a IAT sensor which could be adapted to the TB plate...

Harley

Fuel pressures would be similar for both - the only difference is the number of injectors. The amount of fuel injected is a function of three factors - the time the injector is open, the size of the injector and the fuel pressure. Increase any of the three, get more fuel, decrease, get less. The stuff I've got collected together for mine (was going to just use two injectors on a two-pot, current plan is to do the 1220 in the Mehari) includes an inlet manifold/throttle body etc from a 1.4 K-series Metro. They did an SPI and an MPI version - fuel pump on the SPI delivers 2.7 bar, on the MPI 3.0 bar.

Single-point injection also needs a fuel return - as do a lot of carbs, especially on stuff with electric pumps. Since that's unpressurised, it should be simple enough to add a banjo fitting to the filler neck. Don't forget the fuel filter, either - injectors REALLY don't like mucky fuel. Some G carbs have a return - including the one on the Meh currently. Given the state of the rest of it, I shouldn't be surprised that somebody thought shoving a bolt up an inch of pipe suitable blanking, should I?

The other thing you'll need, as well as an inlet air temp sensor, is a coolant temp sensor - slightly trickier on an air-cooled engine - cylinder head temp is the usual source, AIUI. I've got a CHT sender from a '70s US-spec D-Jetronic VW 411, needs to be fitted into the head fins somehow, but not sure I'll use it - you can get ones that just screw under a plug thread. Setting the cold engine enrichment (think "pulling the choke out") is part of the mapping process, same as the injector durations etc, so the precise temperature-to-resistance curve doesn't really matter unless you're trying to use a pre-existing map.

<thinks> You could just use a variable resistor as a manual "choke", of course...