Hi all

How do I know where to drill into the top of the chassis in order to sqiurt waxoil into the box sections?

Cheers

Justin

I think what the specialists use is a paraffin gun attached to a compressor but with a long 'lance' attached. This is then poked into the open ends of the chassis behind the front and rear bumpers. The 'lance' can be made from a length of brake pipe.

I think the Waxoyl is best diluted 50/50 with White Spirit to allow it to flow better.

I have a restore you 2CV book and they show drilling holes into the top of the chassis and using a spray gun to blow the waxoil in.
Mind you I might get a professional to do it!

A paraffin gun is very cheap to buy (15?), borrow a compressor, then all you need is a drill, a drill bit, and some time. The drilling points are over on the 2CV forum.

What's this forum then?

Was thinking of using Dinitrol instead

The fun sponge forum?

Justin, is this an original chassis, or an after-market one? If original, then the chassis section is - as mentioned above - open at both ends. (I just don't know if the same applies to after-market ones.)

I used an electric 'airless' sprayer (they can cost less than £20, and are really useful things to have) to which I attached a long, thin flexible plastic pipe with a screw screwed in the end (but not too tight). This is how the original Waxoyl flexible probes used to be, and it works! The spray passes by the thread, and is blasted out sideways around the screw head!

I fed this in to the chassis section from both ends until it reached at least half way, and then fired away pushing and pulling the pipe slowly out.

I agree with the above about thinning the Waxoyl too, especially important with 'inside' sections and seams. Thinned Waxoyl will be drawn into every tiny crevice by capillary action, and should seal off these tight panel joins and seams. Use white spirit - although I often use petrol (!) as it dries quickly.

For under arches and outside of chassis rails and underpanels, I'd first apply a thinned coat so's it gets into every nook and cranny, and - after that's had at least one warm day to dry - apply further 'neat' coats which should cope with water spray. The join between the rear outer wings and the inner panels are susceptible areas as we all know - I guess it's best to remove the wings and brush on a think layer of Waxoyl to the join (& both sides of the décor strip) before bolting them back on, wiping excess stuff from around the décor strip afterwards, but you should also get good results from just giving the seam a good spray with thinned stuff first, and topping up with neat coats after it's dried.

Really important is to allow the Waxoyl to dry before driving in wet conditions. It's really pretty durable when 'set' - it turns into a candle-wax like product - and will cope with water spray. I guess it will erode slowly in really exposed areas such as under wings, but a top-up of these parts every couple of years should see it ok.

If you look at the door frames on the car, you'll find small plastic plugs half way up. Pull these out and insert your flexible hose as far up and down as you can. Ditto with sills - there are around 3 (?) holes in each side. There are round 'tube' sections which pass from side to side where the suspension cannisters are - ditto with them. I also plan to remove the door panels and spray right up around the hollow window frames and especially on the bottom one which we know is susceptible (I reckon water which gets under the glass rubber will make it's way to the join between the inner and outer skins and will get drawn in by capillary action. A goodly spray with Waxoyl along that seam from the inside should help a lot! The whole door insides should also be done, of course. Your car will stink for a few weeks, but should be ok after that...

I really think Waxoyl-type products are the best possible stuff to use - FAR superior to any 'paint'-type underseal products. Waxoyl just won't peel off - ever. It won't allow water to creep under it. It's fab!

I've just been doing my 'other' 2CV - one that's had literally 14 months use on the road before being stored for 19 years. It had been undersealed when new, so the underside is absolutely spot-on. I gave it a real close inspection before adding Waxoyl on top, and still found one or two tiny areas where water had become trapped under the layer of existing underseal. When I wire-brushed these small bits off, the underseal came away neatly, showing how water can get under it and simply sit there and 'lift' the coating. It simply doesn't do that with Waxoyl because it doesn't go on like a skin that can peel. If you scratch Waxoyl, then you can certainly get to the metal underneath, but the surrounding areas still won't peel off. Water just can't get between it and the metal underneath!

Justin, if you get someone else to do this job, it simply won't be as thorough as doing it yourself. They will do the 'obvious' bits such as chassis and undertray and wheel arches, but I doubt they'll do 'inside' bits... And, here's the thing, almost all rust comes from underneath...

And it never sleeps.

Thanks for the info, super stuff! Going to smother the old girl is waxoil for sure!

i have the "complete guide to restoring your 2cv" got it for my birthday, if you want or need any pages about the chassis let me know and ill scan them in for you