Thanks for the advice guys

I've bought a service kit off of Ecas... so this Saturday armed with the 2cvgb manual (and some supervision)- I'll be giving chanign spark plugs, leads, etc etc

Thanks
KTx

just to update

Katie still has problems in the mornings, he will start when hes been running for a while etc, ie - 30 minutes drive he will start when turned off straight away.... one thing i noticed immediately... imagine after say a 1 hour drive, in this weather, with no grille muff... you'd expect things at the immediate front of the engine to be cool yes?... Katies coil..... felt like putting your hands round a nice cup of tea.... swapped that for a goodun, although i know a coil wouldnt cause any cold start problems but just something at the time that needed swapping, aparently mylo still isnt starting, Lily want having any of it today, but thats purely due to it being -temperatures and a lack of proper charging due to my finally faulty regulator is causing havoc! I Attempted... lol... to get to the points on katies car... but she's never had the fan off in 3 years, and we dont know how much longer it was before that it has been... or if this is even her original engine? shoddy mark laverty may have swapped that for something sh!tty aswell! the fan bolt alone was solid... took a good arm to crack that one loose... but the fan wasnt having any of it... so points will be changed another time... but seenas i'm having starting problems... i'm going to check her battery and see if its charging properly because he's running fine its just the starting thats the trouble!

Just a though Joe (or Katie, whoever happens to be reading)

has the timing been checked recently or new points?

If they gap on the points is too small through heel wear or bad adjustment could the coil not theoretically get really hot at having to work harder?

Wouldnt help cold starts either.

Just a thought you understand, dont take things i say as any sort of truth.

basically... katie hasnt had the fan off in the last 3 years... aparently mylo's original lady owner had him regularly serviced... but i highly doubt any of the parts on him are original if they were better than what mark laverty had in stock of his left in all weather parts.... the fan seems very solid and after alot of bashing around with bars and sprayings of wd-40 etc trying to wiggle the thing off, i checked from behind to see it hadn't moved a mm on the crank... so i think its going to be one of them "spend a whole day on that one bit" jobbies... but i have no idea on the condition of her points, he starts well when hot though, pretty much just a flick of the key and he's running! poor car is in need of a fair bit of ltc, to which he's not getting as his owner is in a general huff with him atm... ahemmm

Joe
Try and find a bar thats a really tight fit, push it down as if you are simply trying to lever the fan off, and then give it a really sharp whack with a metal hammer about 2" from the fan dog, you might have to repeat in diferent directions till it lets go, What you are doing is applying a steady force that will move the fan and the hammer blow causes a shock that breaks the friction thats holding the fan on. given the mass of the crank and the relativle closeness of the hammer blow you wont dammage anything vital.If thebar is a loose fit it spreads the dog on the fan,which isnt the end of the world and wont damage the vital part of the fan pulley.

Joe if your being a knight in shining armour, change the oil for a 10/40 as at low temp the old oil will be almost solid(-11 here overnite)and causes really sluggish cranking, and the engine needs to spin to get compression and induction if its a bit neglected.

Sean

And you end up here one day



+ imagine the shock going straight in to the crank shaft.

The solution is simple.

Nope dont buy that theory,
dont see how any of the force from the hammer shock will be transferred to the pulley backplate, all the force is contained in the dog/taper area. the only way would be if someone attacked the back of the fan with a long drift to try and shift it.

The stress fracture crack will have more to do with vibration, loads mis alignment of the alternator in my opinion.

ive seen pulleys let go during 24hr race and there has been very little fan removal, but hours of very high motor speeds, compared to the 30 yr old and well abused fan on my road car that just plods on and on and...on..

+very little shock will go any further than the body of the crank due to its mass. its the hitting the big mass with a small one trick- you know all those kung fu type displays where a huge mass of something is smashed while resting on a head or stomach, all the force from the small mass(hammer, sword etc) is absorbed by the bigger and NO force whatsoever is passed to the kungfu type person .

however thats a neat little gadget

Sean

I agree with Sean, you're not putting any force on the pulley, just the dog which is stuck to the crank. there are certain fan pulleys which aren't susceptable to the fracturing, and others which are, but I can't remember which years they were fitted in. I usually wipe the drips off the dipstick onto the crank when I have the fan off, not to lubricate it but to simply stop any moisture from rusting the two parts together. I don't know if it works or not, as I have the fan off regularly.

On the other hand, I was quite impressed by your gizmo when I saw it in Czech, Viking. It's a much nicer solution than smacking the shit out of it.

Hitting (cracking) the hub or not. I simply don't like how all most everybody are hammering the hub to get it off, bad form. This little bush is selling like hot cakes. Not my invention but seen on a finish raid 2cv during raid Australia last year.

For those of us who've looked at the bush and cannot fathom how it allows the fan to be removed, can you explain? I take it the grub screws keep the bush in place, and the bush is threaded?