Heh. To be honest, now I've got the tool, I think I'd rather have eccentrics... Certainly on the front - the hassle vs benefit on the back is a different kettle of fish - and, yes, the fact it's a 2cv nose rather than Ami, with the better access that implies, is also a factor!

As far as the tool goes, you have PM.

Agree proper adjusted brake shoes are number one. We do not recommend these anymore and our supplier has also stopped the sales of them. Too many problems in the long run.

Very good to see thst you help with the adjuster tool. Good on ya.

Willami,
only just realised the significance of this...

"incidently - i've followed the Haynes method for adjustment, but does anyone have any tricks of the trade or bits of advice....i.e. roughly what does an inch turn on the spanner represent in pad/shoe gap

... so, had a look at said manual and they suggest that adjusting the brakes is possible without jacking the wheel off the ground.
I'd reckon that's a recipe for problems, since you really need to be able to spin the road wheel to check for _any_ sign of dragging.

I've also never understood this emphasis on 'never completing the adjustment by backing off the adjuster', especially with front drum brakes on A series vehicles, where you're in an ideal position to see exactly how much the spanner needs to move to have the shoes either just clear of the drums or just grazing them.

If you did have the shoes adjusted too tightly and drove the car until the brakes locked, it's possible that you've glazed the linings.
Unfortunately, if that is the case, the drums would still need to come off to sand the linings, but that's nowhere near as much of a chore as centralising the shoes (again?) or replacing a leaky cylinder.

ken.

p.s. Re. 'concentrics'...
Such horrible things, whenever I've found them on a car, I've taken them off and thrown them in the scrap bin.
The problem now is that I've used up so many of my 'eccentrics', even sent a couple of sets to America a while back.
If you ever buy a set of the SPOG eccentrics, you should find that they're marked to show the point of maximum 'throw', at my suggestion...

Am I missing something here?
No need to touch the adjuster bolt if the shoes are positioned correctly. When using the centering tool and the tool is adjusted to the diameter of the drum, the drum will slide on and off easily without having to turn the adjuster bolts. If you need to, the centering is incorrect and you should start again.
If you back off the shoes, it means that the shoes overall diameter is greater than drum and the same minute you back off the shoes, the centering goes down the drain.
This is how I center the shoes.
Set the eccentrics to roughly neutral (not completely possible) fit the drum and secure with 2 bolts opposite each other. Spin the drum to make sure it turns freely. Turn both adjuster bolts until both shoes are nearly in contact with the drum. Don’t forget the hand brake cable, need to be without any pull. Bring one shoe in contact with the drum, basically blocking the drum so it can’t turn. Back off the adjuster bolt so the drum turns freely again. Leave it and do the same to the other shoe. Remove the drum, fit your tool and find the highest point on the shoes. Adjust your tool to this point. Now it is possible to center both shoes by turning the eccentrics. If you need to move the adjuster bolts, then you have a small problem.
When finished, the centering tool will nicely touch the entire surface of the lining equally with just enough resistance. Secure the nuts with pins and fit the drum WITHOUT backing of the adjuster bolts. The shoes are now spot on just a fraction of the drum. The drum should run freely. Adjust the handbrake and job done. Same method on the back brakes

Viking,
if you failed to notice that I was replying to Will's first post, the answer has to be 'yes'...

ken.

Not to worry. Happy to admit that I miss a lot

Viking / Ken / Adrian (i think that's you)

thanks alot for all this advice - i wish i had some advice back, but as you know i'm new to A Series and between you i doubt i'll ever know anything you don't already....ha ha

i would say though - i have adjusted on the cam-bolts and the groaning has in fact stopped - car is braking well and straight (for now!?!)

maybe i did in fact have a bit of contamination on the pads but it seems to have solved itself - the noise that is....

time is very tricky at the moment, so whilst i know eventually i will have to set them up with the special tool etc. (as per Viking's mail) it really will have to do for now....not sure if that's the right attitude...but hey!

thanks alot you lot....what a great forum, what a great 'scene'

Will