Hey, I can drill holes. I mean, who can't drill a hole, right.

Though getting 36 of them evenly spaced and all of even depth could be the tricky bit..

I think I'll give it a go.

No laughing when you see the results though.

Drill first through a piece of wood an use it as a end-stop.. A 2by 2cm wood piece...

And please don't do 36 holes.. 35 are enough.. Leave the hole out between 90 and 180 degrees before tdc.. Otherwise it doesn't work well in some occasions..


If you drill 36 holes you need a cam trigger also but then you can do full sequencial injection..

Thanks guys

I need to give that some thought Geo as it a missing tooth, not a missing hole! As I understand it speedy doesn't register the hole, it is looking at the metal between the holes. However, having said that, in Tuner Studio, which is the configuration software, you can set a leading or trailing edge for the tooth. Although probably not intended for this purpose, it may be the fix for using holes rather than teeth.

Any thoughts on this are appreciated.

Also, as I have purchased the trigger wheel, it is probably best to at least try it. Its going to be very fiddly to set up though.

. It isn't the hole neither the tooth.. It is the transition in between.. Low to high is rising edge high to low is falling edge and this has nothing to do with holes and tooth but the current which is build up.. Or stops. Npn sensor or pnp sensor or changes with a Vr sensor.. Just to confuse you....

It is up to your layout and used sensor what you need, rising edge or falling edge to make it work well. Read the Megasquirt manual there are plenty of websites to this subject..

Take a look at my first attempt triggerwheel behind the fan. Immediately realizing there's no space in a 2cv for this and then went for the flywheel triggerwheel.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7BFBOltFBaQ


Looking at the video realizing this is almost 9 years ago. Time flies when your having fun...

Thanks Geo
I'm not confused by it, its just configuring the software that's going to be the tricky bit. However, as you say, its the transition that is the important bit. After that, its just tick boxes

I'm toying with the idea of replacing the luminition two tooth trigger wheel with a more toothed one at the moment.

However, I'm still doing stuff with my bike at the moment. The cooling fan motor brushes have melted. A common fault for this model when its left stood for a number of years.

Not progress as such ..... however.

The bike is working now

A little bit of progress on the Shedouin. My efforts using FreeCad. The wheel is only 42mm in diameter and 24-1, and the idea is to replace the Lumenition trigger, but use the Lumenition sensor connected to Speedy.

Now I need to get it printed.! I've been looking at 3D printers and they range in price from about 3k to a 100 pounds. So you really have to wonder what your going to get for a hundred pounds! Brother in Law says he knows people with cheap ones who spend more time getting them working than printing with them.

I acquired a 3D printer a few days ago. Just have to learn to use it now.

Fascinating stuff, look forward to see how it goes .

Some progress on my steep Learning curve

I have a prototype 36-1 wheel. As it's running on the cam, the resolution is really 18-1. I may get away with a higher resolution but thought I would try this. Although, it fits the points cam, I don't know if it will fit the optical sensor yet.

I have 36-1 trigger wheel on cam on my Sm, controlling ignition with MS2. Couldn't believe the accuracy with that, the advance is right there where it should be, checked with strobe and fixed advance. Don't be worried about need of higher resolution...