No, not the front wheels ... the REAR wheels.
What would you all (1) expect them to be, and (2) after actually putting a tape measure on them, what did you actually find?

Noticed the other day that Gerty has worn the outer shoulder bald on the l/h rear tyre. I had heard of factory bent rear arms on some late cars but this is 1965 complete with batteurs. Am I slinging it round corners to fast or did Russ bend the arm with all his hooning?

Get your stringline out and all should be revealed...

...apart from when and where things went a bit skew-whiff.

my blue car has 1mm toe in one side and 1mm toe out the other - manufacturing tolerances? suppose itll depend on which side was down when it was dipped in the vat of molten zinc and deposited more metal in the hole

1 mm makes no noticeable affect on driving or tyre wear We argue every year about it on race cars a small amount of toe in is supposed to help with cornering i prefer to set it up 0

Check the camber, important too.

Poss. camber is the more likely culprit in my case - easier to 'knock' some in against a curb perhapse?

Because its a trailing arm and fixed geomertry the wheel follows an arc rather than moving up and down vertically therfore unless the wheel is at 0° toe in and 0° camber, the angles change with the movement of the trailing arm

Just saying

As the wheel moves up & down @ the end of it's arc I can see that the toe in could convert to + & - camber (though the travel is probably insufficent to make this noticable) but as the arc is (hopefully) @ right angles to the fore & aft centre line would the camber (is there [suposed to be] any on a 2cv rear wheel?) remain almost constant? Just trying to get my head to understand this... Mmm... actually with the limited amount of arc used by the suspension travel I doubt there is a noticable change to either... witter witter....

If my n/s rear tyre has worn a bald strip round its outside shoulder this means I have excessive toe in on that wheel OR possibly negative camber which is causing the shoulder to be tucked under when cornering hard - possibly that should be AND/OR
Will do stuff with sticks and string @ some point soon to check, Ken.

we worked out the optimum camber for the rear running 135 Mich to be only a couple of mm this was achieved on one car by cutting and shutting the rear crosstube and on another using a big pole on an old wheel

Bit of camber and a bit of toe in make for a snappier cornering experience - however thats on the racers with up rated and dropped suspension and a set of tyres lasting less than 24hrs. For a D*lly wallowing on standard keep it all 0*, there is no reason for the rear tyre to scrub on a road car if it does ( and you hav'nt been booting it round a roundabout all day ) somethings wrong!

Sean, can I infer from this that you might have expected the "factory setting" to be zero toe-in? No one else seems to have directly answered the first question I put up...
That (zero) is indeed what I would have guessed...and was surprised to discover it wasn't!
Not only that, but 'twere different on either side. And more than 1mm, too. And no - it has never been bingled.

So now ... does anyone have suggestions on setting/changing the toe-in? Big cheater bar? Or more technically, shims of some sort? Hydraulics as per a chassis straightening rig?