My car failed its MOT on the front near side wheel bearing.

I've done a search and established its worth buying the tool for undoing the locking ring, and buying a new locking ring.

My 2 questions are, is it worth doing both bearings, or just the one in question? ( I only plan to buy the decent, skf brand)

Do I need to remove the kingpin and take the hub to the workbench?

Apparently it feels "rough when rotated"!!

I have 10 days in which to dodge the full charge to do it. The old fashioned garage across the road from my mums house where very keen to do the work, but one of the old chaps in the garage did an apprenticeship at citroen and seems very up his own arse!!

Plus I cant afford to do it!

P.S

I also don't have a puller / the correct tool to remove and re seat correctly...
ECAS are out of stock, is the a suitable substitute on eBay? seems a minefield of things out their.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/21-PCS-Front- ... 1c1b01c2fc

Suitable?

Just do the one in question you don't need to take the kingpin apart either. I''ve got a bearing lock ring tool if you want to borrow it.

Cheers Chris!!

I am going to buy the lock ring tool, as it doubles up as a 44m 1/4 socket for the rear drums, something I haven't got in my tool set....

Long time no see. Must come see my new place!!!

Cheers

James,
you don't need a puller, since the bearing is a sliding fit in the front hub carrier, or the hub if it's a rear bearing which is being replaced.
Once the bearing retaining ring ( aka bush nut) has been removed, the bearing will push out.
If you've got access to one of the old style tool for removing the bearing ring, that actually brings the bearing out with the ring.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/30132857@ ... XQ7-5ZKzrz

&

https://www.flickr.com/photos/30132857@ ... Q7-5ZKzrz/

You won't forget to order a pair of seals, will you?

ken

p.s. No need to replace the other side, wheel bearings can be done on an 'as required' basis.

Ken Thanks

Front bearing

Had 2 x seals on the list!!

Couldn't remember if they where a change as a pair scenario, I'm sure i've heard bearings need to be changed in pairs, but maybe thats in the boat trailer world who knows!!

One last question Ken, what torque will the nuts need doing to? Or is it a tight but not gut busting tight?

They failed your car on a wheel bearing and were really keen to do the work? I wonder how many hours the book states for fitting a new bearing.

They probably didn't have the book?

Too be fair, it was the guy in the office (who i know really well and get along with) who was keen, i don't like there MOT / mechanic guy though....

Coincidently, the office guy is Matt Prior's brother ( England cricketer!!)

Hi James,
see that 3/4 drive breaker bar in the second photograph?
It's one and a half feet long and I weigh 180 lbs, so leaning on the bar provides more than enough torque to seat a bearing retaining ring, then staking the ring with a centre punch at two points will ensure that it doesn't try to escape...

Which reminds me; don't forget to drill out the original staking before trying to remove the retaining ring. If you don't, the threads on the original ring can be damaged, making it difficult to re-use.

I don't weigh quite that, but havea longer1/2 breaker bar (yet to bend it;) )

cheers

will crack on tomorow and report back