How should I properly set up the spring cans?

Everything's in pieces, I have replacement cans and spent an hour or two with my dad cleaning up the threaded tubes, 46mm nuts and doughnuts.

Question is, how to I put it all back together in the right order? I'm keen that the suspension should work properly and would like some tips on optimal setup, particularly the positioning of the threaded tubes in relation to the cans and doughnuts.

Cheers chaps

Also, a thought: if i use the tubes to adjust the cans slightly forward, will that help the rear suspension sis slightly higher (as the tie rods will be pulled further forward too)?

The position of the can fore and aft can be counteracted by the adjustment of the tie-rod ends, so is not critical. I would set all 4 threaded tubes evenly and make sure there is enough left protruding to fit the rubber tie-rod gaiter.
The only aspect of setting up the cans that you need to be concerned with is the endfloat, the gap between the end of the can and the rubber doughnut, the small gap here allows the can to slide forwards and backwards, and is the key to the interlinking of the front and rear suspension. I think the gap should be something like 3mm, but would need someone to confirm it. Personally I set mine with no gap, and squashed the doughnut up against the end of the can as hard as possible, because I don't like the way the interlinked suspension makes the car pitch back and forth when I accelerate or brake.

Cheers old chap, so end float is what I need to look out for

Joolz,
there's a certain irony in that statement, since 'squashing the doughnuts' disables the canister end-float and the anti-pitch behaviour of the suspension which it's intended to provide.

To be technically correct, the position of the rear threaded tube and its rubber buffer should be set with the car assembled and resting on its wheels, with the suspension heights adjusted.

@ Sam, Haynes has quite a good description of the procedure, Chapter 9, pages 137/138 in the copy I've just checked.

Also, the best way to compensate for rear springs which have been overloaded and shortened is to cut about 10mm off the end of the rear tie rods.
Be careful though if you've got some of those replacement tie rod ends which are shorter than the original hexagonal eyes, the replacements are shorter and the rods do not need to be trimmed...

ken

samfieldhouse,
These 2-3 mm gap can make you happy
It worked for me together with generous can lubrication.
Just make sure the front-rear orientation and model dependent canisters and rod links.

Ken,
The sliding of the canisters is designed to minimise the pitching effect of driving over uneven ground, or for example speedbumps. But I'm under the impression that it will increase the pitching caused by hard braking and acceleration, if I'm wrong you'll have to explain it in more detail to me sometime.

my 2cv doesn,t accelerate as such
it kind of eventually gets there

I went with the 2-3mm gap for wriggle room, the canisters rotate freely which is a plus! Really pleased, can't wait to drive it