Junior Ashton, why the last year..??

New tax system I think?

Nels,
hmm, by raising the suspension height, I guess you've given the tracking a shade more toe-out?
There's not much 'bump steer' on an A series, but there is some, otherwise it wouldn't be necessary to adjust the tracking after any adjustments to ride height...
Lock stop adjustment is the more usual method of catering for wider tyres.

ken

Hi Ken - I'm ignorant about this side of the 2CV - I'm OK with the oily bits but never had this problem before - how do I go about adjusting the "lock stop"?

On the bottom of the swing arm there's a 14mm(?) bolt that you literally screw into and out of the swing arm. This controls how far you can turn the wheels. They're usually covered in muck! look right at the end near the hub.

Nels,
as Sam says, here's a steering swivel covered in muck, understandable as it lives on a farm...

There are a pair of on each swivel; one faces forwards, however it's the one facing towards the rear of the car which you need to adjust.
The bolt has a 9mm thread, so the head and the locknut are both 14mm 'across the flats'.

As they may not have been adjusted previously, they may need a fair amount of torque to undo, so use a pair of spanners, one on the bolt and one on the locknut.

Once the bolt is slackened, free off the locknut, then screw the bolt outwards ( or inwards) until there's a gap of about 5mm between the tyre and the suspension arm on full lock.
It may take a bit of trial and error, but once you're happy with the setting, don't forget to nip up the locknut.

Repeat for the other side, if it's catching as well.

ken


Expanding Welch plug by slcchassis, on Flickr

I would have thought that you should first release the locknut, isn't that why it's called a locknut?

I would bow to Ken's experience. I bet he's undone more of these than the rest of us put together!

Theoretically, yes.
However, in reality, it's not so straightforward, since it's impossible to fully engage an open-ended spanner on the locknut, even on the earlier type of arm which used a 7mm thread/11mm head for the screw and locknut.
The only reason these need to be disturbed is when using wider tyres than the original 125 or 135 section, so they're usually well rusted in place.

By using 2 spanners, I've found that the chances of removing the setscrew in one piece are much better and if you haven't already (un)done one, you may well find the same...

ken

Finally found the source of the puddle in my passenger footwell ( very apt that ) water was finding it's way in through the seam under the battery tray,where the caulk had failed or not been done quite fully.Also the drip from the left side of the dash, which turned out to be via a poor seal on the vent flap rubber. The odd thing was it leaked more with the flap closed !! But hey ho all seems well now and no pun intended