So do we set it static on full advance and then check with a strobe when running?

I think one of the few advantages that the 123 gave was the fact that it used 2 trigger magnets but then averaged out the 2 readings to get a smoother ignition ( which is evident in the video) there only seems to be scatter at idle - which isnt really a problem while your sitting at traffic lights

Richard
yes its best to set the timing dynamically ( geo is right wear in the system could lead to possible over advance) follow the instructions all over here and 2cvgb about dynamic timing, a bit of error at idle wont cause any problems, at full chat you could seriously damage the engine I tried following the Lummi instructions for static but couldnt get the readings or the accuracy that the instructions suggested.

I'm saying this again and again, with points (or luminition) set static with the pen into the flywheel and set dynamic with the 2 wings (don't know how to call them in English) by bending them in or outwards so that when the counterweights go more outwards giving more advance and bending them inwards retarding the ignition.....

So at my ignition you do all this "bending" by changing numbers in a certain cel (for 12 rpm ranges)....

With my ignition I observe several things......

For normal starting (around 200 rpm) I'm at about 8 degrees btdc (before top dead center). With an almost flat battery or freezing weather my ignition will retard to almost 2 or 3 degrees btdc. Once the engine runs at 800 rpm it is advancing at about 20 degrees btdc so this is about 12 degrees more then a regular ignition giving you noticable more torque.
My car can drive away iddleling around 1000 rpm in 4. gear... (with logic coils).
At about 2000rpm the advance is about 24 degree already.......

You can never achieve this using the points and or counterweights.....

On top of that the tempsensor gives you another 8 degrees of advance at a very cold engine
-10 degrees C. So you need less or no choke at all when the engine is cold. At 60 degree C. there the brake even point ignition starts to retard....

p.s This isn't advertisement for my ignition, this is just an observation I've made on tuning several 2cv engines with my ignition......

It's New Year's Eve, has nobody got anything better to do than argue about this? Fit points and live happy.

Still have points fitted, only thing is I don't use them anymore (last time in Spa last year, when a solderjoint broke down on me (nothing to do with 1-2-Spark))..... doing 2km more on every liter of fuel makes me using 1-2-Spark (sorry I'm Dutch)......

and no I had nothing better to do.......