So the temperature sensor is also working!! This is the last missing link for my ignition.






At the top left the life temperature, as you can see in my livingroom it is 22,3 degrees Celcius.... At the bottom the correction table with the advancenumbers, the numbers are the correction at a particular degree -40 to 140. Ofcourse there will be calculated liniair between two points..

The (in this case)* purple line shows you at which cell you are at the moment... and in the right upper corner is the correction value 3.88 degrees....

So assume the advance is 20 degrees at this moment then the totale advance will be 23.88 degrees at this moment.....

At 60 degrees theres the turning point; the engine gets hotter so I need to retard the ignition.... (a simple rule cold engine needs more advance a hotter engine needs to be retarded to avoid pinking)....

You can correct the ignition from -12.5 dergrees to +12.5 degrees I think this is more then enough.....

Ofcourse you can also see the real coolant (in our case cilinder-head-temperature) at the dashboard...





Tomorrow I will make a video holding the sensor in a cold glass of water and a hot glass of water..... and afterwards the ignition will go into my test 2cv.....

* you can change the color of the line into any color...


ps. I have now all the ingredients to make injection possible.........

@ knocksensor;
I can see why you would need that expensive knock sensor unit to set up and fine tune knock sensing woth a 2cv motor.
2cv motors naturally sound "knocky" as they don't have a water jacket to dampen the sound.
My 2cv engine was refurbished by a guru here 10yrs ago, I was shocked at the sound it was making when I installed it...
He told me it will last the distance and that some engines are noiser than others, I have flogged the piss out of it ever since and it's still strong
What this means is a well tuned knock sensor may be suitable for one engine but not another. I know I would rather have an engine running ay maximum advance than one continually dropping down due to an inappropriate knock sensor event.
Not to mention which head you would want to fit it too in the hope the other doesn't experience the event...
Geo"s use of a temp sensor is that way forward!

Harley

Your right of course Harley I used to drive a smart four two. Which have knock sensors or in our case a pinking sensor when I used higher octane fuel it went a lot better making use of the extra advance ,, I thought these sensors rretarded the ignition by a few degrees on the next firing stroke to stop the pinking i.e. Continually monitoring the pinking what ever the temperature /engine load and adjusting to suit .. If a sensor could be fine tuned with a lap top to just under the pinking zone I thought this would be ideal. I am no expert of course.

Yeah, in my research with megasquirt a knock sensor is a fail safe device, not used for active top ebd advance. When a knock is detected it will retard timing a pre determined amount for a pre determined amount of time. Hardly a progressive, active tuning method.

Harley

about knock-sensors.....

There are several issues, software and hardware...

how do you want to treat knock...

only retard ignition and leave it there, your engine wouldn't make max power then..

retard just for a moment and andvance a litle bit each time till knock apears again and then retard (loop)

Then how much do you retard fixed number or measured to the noise of pinking
how do you requegnize??? knock.....

You need to meassure for knock in a "window" where knock can happen, so you need to know if a cilinder is in the position about 50-8 degrees btd. Only then it wouldn't be noise it will be a knock...

You must tune the knock chip for a cdertain frequency where the knock is visible and filter all other frequencies...

You must make a threshold when the noise is a knock or not.....

You must know in which cilinder the knock appears so you can retard only that cilinder, so you need two tabels 1 for each cilinder......



Above are just the major things you need to sort, then come all the mineor issues.. please don't ask me to go on....

cheers Geo.....

as said before give me a 5 volt signal (when knock appears) and I will retard the ignition....... that is what I can/(will) do......

So here it is; a little video, staring a cold glass of water (at the left) and a hot glass (at the right) and offcourse the 1-2-spark unit and software in combination with an automotive temp. sensor measuring the temperature...... I am also playing a little rol....... dipping the temp sensor You can use it to measure oiltemp, airtemp, headtemp (by the air around it) and so on....

So the last missing link is working; advancing retarding the ignition by the temperature of the cilinderheads it works great, another thing which avoids pinking, I still need to test it but it is again looking great.......

This evening I made a package ready to have soldered 5 kits professionaly, if this works I will have all the kits soldered together professionally. So I think within a week or 2 I have a steady flow of kits.....

Geo cheers for hose! Arrived last week

Is there a way of "adding on" the temprature adjuster to the early kits?

At your pcb it would be possible but I have to have it back then, there have to be some modifications made at the pcb (laying some wires) and ofcourse the sensor+ wires..... but at the moment I am still testing what will be the best sensor (I guess open element) but I will have results in a few weeks

Several things done on 1-2-Spark, today I programmed a connection for driving an electric petrol pump with 1-2-spark, when you put on the ignition the petrol pump will run for about 9 seconds then it will stop, when you start the engine (sensor passes the pickup) the petrol pump starts running and as long as your engine runs the pump will run too. If the engine dies, the pump will stop also after 2 seconds.... so in cause of an accident the pump doesn't pump any petrol all over the place...... ofcourse if you turn the ignition off the pump will stop also......

So what do you think, please give me your suggestions. meaning......

You can also use this for lpg tank cutt off, active coils (Harley) aso. I'm going to use it in my Beemer concversion....

At the moment 5 kits are getting soldered together professionally, I hope to get them this weekend so then I can start shipping. Then I hope to have a steady flow of ignition kits and can sein the future....

I've also ordered open temp. sensors (fast response sensors) the "air coolant" advancing/retarding is already working good but I think it will be even better with them....

at last I'm working on a professional pcb layout (gerber files) so that no-one can complain when soldering the pcb's