are they the smart tyres on your yellow one? looking slick.

this afternoons progress, workshop work as its loads cooler in there, the rear seat is now sorted (well apart from the upholstery of coarse), sits as low as poss, I´m 192cm and yes I just touch the roof but I had a beer in there and it wasnt bad at all!
I narrowed the back of the seat a smidgeon so it enters further into the car (more leg room for the nippers) and I´m down to minimum leg height wise, any lower and your bum will notice the steel underneath you.

also as you can see the front legs have been brought inboard which I think is more subtle and in keeping.

what I was saying with chris W, the 3 spot welds to locate the body, ...I was sure the body was centred, but , when I put the bonnet on top check for the wings....way off to the left!, so cut the welds and readjust..tomorrows aim is to get the wings and light bar sorted

heres a couple of pix

They are smart tyres (155/60), bit of a double edged sword, they give really good road holding and do give it a unique appearance, but because they're such a low profile compared to 135 Michelins they never fill the front arches, even with the chassis touching the floor they don't make the car look low and hunkered down. I did consider trying to add an inch to the front wing lip to close it in a bit but I don't think I could make it look 'right'. Stick with the tyres you've got (they're the best) and give it some camber and it will look sweet as sugar coated tits.

oddly the michelins that are on are the most expensive it seems!... I assume having smarts hidden under the back and normal 2cv´s on the front is highly illegal?

at last heres a pic of the clearance, its way high, this is about 2cm from bump stops all around...which ofcorse means it has no suspension ...so i´m in the process of cutting and raising the rear stops to give me the same height but a bit of bounce

its so nice to wheel this out and sweep under the car...10 days and 25years worth of work and accumulated mud under there!

another quick question...does anyone have a cross section or any idea of whats supposed to be inside the second silencer please. seems to be 3 seperate chambers with a tube running through the middle. did they have some sort of sound absorbant in there??(apart from yet another mouse nest and a load of rust fragments??), I´m shortening and redoing mine if possible, but theres not much there to go on! cheers

I'd bin it and just have the front cross box, it sounds good! Depends on which brand, some have two pipes inside them that have perforations to let the exhaust gas go from one to the other, some have a straight through pipe which is perforated and has wadding round it.

[quote="sig"]oddly the michelins that are on are the most expensive it seems!... I assume having smarts hidden under the back and normal 2cv´s on the front is highly illegal?

/quote]

I should think it is not illegal - normally if the front is wider than the rear then they do not like that..

Oh, and you're perfectly fine have different tyre sizes at the front and rear, the tyres I have are more of a ballache to fit under the rear wings than standard though, and mines a stock shell. I am 3mm away from the bump stop at the top and 3mm away from the rear wing at the bottom. I could trim the wing return away and use a wheel spacer but I'd only be gaining another 1deg of camber or so. I'd stick it on 125s at the back if it were I.

By the way, the ultimate mark of lowering greatness is when the paint burns off the tops of the front wings where the tyre touches it. This is hard to achieve.

now your just trying to start trouble!

ok, so not being the type of person that works on any one thing for very long, I started looking at the bonnet, the connection with the wings was forced and not right, the bonnet needed an extra centimetre or 2!, also as if by magic the hinge needed sorting as it was starting to rot..so I plucked up the courage to give sidney a nose job

I´ve added a 30mm x 1.5mm stainless angle to the steel near the air vent (angle part inside stops buckling and easier weld and strength, the outer flange gets welded onto the left over hinge which being double thickness steel is also easy to weld, gives me an extra 15mm or so at that point which makes the bonnet fit great. also I can adjust the bad citroen detail at the hinge so water doesnt collect there anymore

also wings had dints beaten out and flanges beaten in for tyre issues, the light bar now works in the right position and I think I´ve solved the problem with clearabnces and the acculmulator by moving the bonnet..win win!

oh and the front bumper has been reshaped a bit and the hideous rear bumper hammered flatter and ground down a bit.its actually starting to grow on me

ok reaching the 2 week mark so I finally did the tricky stepped cross members for the floor and welded the second part of the floor in. there are some near impossible interior corners to grind and I´m reticent to get the dremel out !
I loosely tried a bit of polishing on the stainless and it looks acceptable so I think I´ll do some more tomorrow, I really don´t want to paint the floor if I can help it but it means all the welds have to be impeccable
er, mostly I´m getting very frustrated at the engine, which I expected would be turning by now..still very stiff in parts..I assume where the valves are opening and closing.it´ll be difficult to stop me not taking the heads off tomorrow to de coke..is there anything fundamental I should know?...I havent got the gaskets or the book yet so I won´t be putting them back on but I need to get the engine turning for my sanity!!

also bought some bling for the rear arches..those shiny gravel protector things, and the new roof (jade green..my girls choice)and exhaust is ordered


heres the pix (found an extra cable for the phone so a bit better quality than normal

You could start by removing the rocker covers and check the movement of the rockers. If the engine has been sitting for a long time and the oil has gone hard it would be wise to flush out the oil feed pipes to the heads and make sure they are clean. Do not forget about the gearbox - drain and change the oil.. I would alfter all the work you have done is get the engine out - strip it down (very easy) and make sure it is all great for great car...