When you look at your foto it seems like it is folded (right corner) but I think it is grinded or something like that... and just looks weird at the foto....

So we now know we don't need to weld at the flywheel!!!!!

Now we only need to attach the sensorholder to the 2 screws of the carb and you don't need to weld at all......

Geo free holiday to england if you want to come get it working

Edit

Think ill weld it easier i think

Does the leading edge of the sensor need to be dead lined up with the tooth at 45 degrees,? And if so which side to line up?

And one more silly question, finding the 45 degree mark by turning anti clockwise so anti coockwise as you look from front to back (opposite to the direction of the engine running ..)?

Probably over thinking this but want to get it right ...

How thick is a 2cv manifold? "Exhaust" thickness so to speak? Dont want to burn holes..!!

2 screws at the back the carb, but you need to modify (weld) the sensor bracket anyway to fit it to the carb screws....... so welding it to the manifold is less work....


Personaly I don't think so. But drilling a hole with the weight of the plate can't do any harm I guess... (hope you understand what I'm trying to say)


leading edge (left side of the pickup) needs to be lined up with the left side of the sensor....
when the engine is at the 11. tooth (45 degrees before top dead center)




Geo free holiday to england if you want to come get it working[/quote]
Would love to; but sorry

Ok thanks geo

I fit tuesday ....

Think i fully understandnow ..,

I take it your diagram arrow is anticlickwise opposite to normal operation (just checking)

So actually doesnt matter where you weld pickup / sensor so long as it is 45 degree before tdc when lined up with the sensor? Suddenly makes sense

For 95euro 4 of these can be delivered to your door;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281119099761
I think I have 2 spare, I'll look, I got mine 2nd hand for around $50.
I'll sort something out and send them to you so you can test them on your dyno run

Harley

Its grinded. I use a piece of Zincor plate 1.5mm. At the bottom right the zinkcor is grinded.

@ Jameswallace

The mainfold is easy to weld. But not to long at onece. Beter 2 or 3 times weld and give some time to cool down. I use 0.6mm wire no holes.

@Lpgo

don't you think carburator is te far from the pickup. There is only 1mm space. If it flex a little the sensor damaged.

its cast - you wont burn holes

cross pipes are thinner tube, there is every risk of burning through that

the flywheel is cast and machined so you might find thats a "tricky" weld better off bolting or braizing

Geo
cant you just fit a single bolt so that the head acts like the "slugs" on the visa set up?

I think the air intake tube wher you weld the sensorholder is not cast.
It is possible to burn a hole in that part.

It is possible to use a bolt head. Only if you have a flywheel that is wide.
If you have the narrow there is no space for a bolt.

Don't need to answer anymore these days everyone else does.....

I prefer welding to the inletmanifold, but I will try and look if it works mounting the sensor bracket to the carburetor.

Inlet monifold tubes are are good stuff to weld on, as djjr82 says just 1 spot at the time, so take your time.....

@ Harley, if you can send me 2 truck coils that would be great, I will make it happen and send them and the working unit back to you.... I guess I stick with my black coil don't have any trouble with it....

@ Jameswallace Yes you are right the arrow is pointing in the wrong direction...The crankshaft turnes in the other direction when standing at the fan side..... Good thinking of you....

Tried welding to my heavy flywheel this evening. No luck



Did get a weld to hold reasonably well but i wouldnt be happy with how it was

So i will bolt the pickup.
Tomorow hopefully i will do it