As I'm mostly cruising (or at least trying to avoid sudden speed changes) to be a little more fuel efficient, I'm looking forward to this development. I'm quite serious about being a test driver for 1-2 Spark with vacuum advance

In the new pcb which I'm develloping the map sensor is integrated, so when the new pcb's arrive I need to programm it. In my mind it is already working, but most of the time reality is something else......
just like the advance table I will make a Map table with 10 values.....

30 (engine starving to less of air (see 45))
45 (makes no sense for vacuum advance only used at iddling)
60 advance + 15 degrees
85 advance + 10 degrees
100 advance + 0 degrees
115 advance - 0 to - 5 degrees
130 advance -10 degrees
160 advance -15 degrees (maximum boost with a carburator and turbo)
200 don't do this with a 2cv
250 never do this with a standard 2cv

values are coming out of my mind no garantee..........


normal airpressure will be 100
a 2cv iddling will be around 45/55 (butterfly closed in carburator so maximum vacuum)
a 2cv cruising around 75/90
a 2cv on full trottle around 100 (no restriction of the butterfly in the carburator so normal air-pressure)

a boosted 2cv engine above 100

Next one please.......

Next in line is 1976 Dyane 6.52

Last wednesday Mark was here again, give him the newest version with all the new options......

So I will adapt the old unit from Mark to the newest version and will send it to "1976 Dyane 6.52"
so he can power up his turbo 2cv.............

So here's a little to do instruction for mounting 1-2- spark at a 2cv engine........

Put a pen or 6mm drill into the flywheel like you do with original points, so now the engine has 8 degrees of advance........ (8 degrees before top dead center (tdc)

Now 1-2-Spark need the pickup at 45 degrees of advance (tdc). So all you have to do is this.

a 2cv flywheel has 107 tooth. 1 tooth at the flywheel is 360/107= 3.36 degrees

Youv'e got allready 8 degrees so you need 45-8 = 37 degrees

37/3.36 = 11.01 tooth

So you need to turn your flywheel 11 tooth anticlockwise (standing in front of the car looking at the fan) and then you have the engine at the position that the pickup (which is a plate 10 mm widht) is right under the sensor.

When you turned the flywheel 11 tooth anticlockwise the hole in the flywheel needs to be at around 5 past 12...... (so a littleto the right of the highest position)

I hope you understand what I'm trying to say.........

I put the sensor always at the left side of the starterengine (standing in front of the car blah blah)
welding the sensor bracket to the inlet manifold.



Tomorrow I will make pictures it is easier to understand then.

Now the wires........
Red goes to the ignition +
black goes to ground -
blue goes to the coil (-) where normally the wire from the points go)
the other wire to the coil must be + from ignition
green (can go to a visa vacuumbox other wire in the vacuumbox goes to the ground)
you don't need this to make your engine run but is saves you fuel when cruising.
then a red and black wire to the sensor (shielded wire) black goes to the side where it is mounted, red at the other side.

the 2 grey wires is for tableswitch they are already installeld to the switch, the middel connection of the switch must go to - ground....

Now thats all, you can now fire up your car.


Heres also the newest software on which your unit will run.


Cheers

Getting everything ready for shipping to 1976 Dyane 6.52

some picturs of the pickup mounting at the flywheel




and sensor bracket/sensor bracket position.




when mounting the pickup turn the engine by hand first and look if the pickup runs free from the engine!!!!!!

when mounting the sensor, put a washer (.8 to 1.2mm thick )at the tip of the sensor, then push it on the pickup look that is paralel to the pickup ==== when it is welded there should be a space from .8 to 1.2 mm between pickup and sensor....

You know more than me about this kind of thing, so don't think I'm questioning your knowledge here, but shouldn't the flywheel be balanced again after you've welded anything to it? even if you were to just drill a couple of holes to remove the same amount of metal you've added?

Was wondering that myself

That's quite a bit of "out of balance" surely.

even a welded (after it broke) cooling fan resulted in a more shuddering engine, and that is a weld more close to the centre of rotation

As I am next for the 1-2 spark I had a look at my old VISA flywheel and on there is a quite a large metal spigot for the sensor and I can not see any holes drilled around it to counterbalance the weight. Maybe the crank had been altered to balance it!! What I am going to do is (as mine has he heavy flywheel and large flange by the starter ring) is drill a 6mm hole in the flywheel and thread it and lock tight a bolt with just head showing above flywheel (making sure head is below the starter ring) and then the only difference in weight will the head of the bolt. I will cut a head off and weigh it and drill slightly deeper hole /to thread to rebalance the flywheel.

I've not noticed any issues with balance on my 2CV.

When you look at how many 2CVs have fan blades missing or mud in the front of the fan you'd think that that would unbalance the engine but they seem to run all right as well.

New unit running well and I've seen dramatic increase in MPG. Now getting up to 49mpg!

You don't need to put a bolt in. A 8mm hole say about 3mm deep in your flywheel will run great.

You only need to change the two wires at the sensor red to the side of the sensor fixation.

But ofcours your trick will work also....

I only use pickups for small flywheels.....