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Saurus
Firing on two.
Joined: March 25th, 2012, 6:11 pm Posts: 165 Location: Lodz, Poland
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 Re: 1-2-spark
lpgo wrote: @Saurus I think theres an advantage 1-2-Spark vs 123 in every engine, theres a torque improvement from 800 to 3000rpm and yes you are right a map sensor will make it more fuel-efficient when not under full throttle, I think it will give you 2-3 litres a 100 km when cruising along, under full throttle there will be no diffrence.
As I'm mostly cruising (or at least trying to avoid sudden speed changes) to be a little more fuel efficient, I'm looking forward to this development. I'm quite serious about being a test driver for 1-2 Spark with vacuum advance 
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July 24th, 2012, 11:20 pm |
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lpgo
Firing on 1-2 Spark
Joined: November 8th, 2009, 5:42 pm Posts: 2847 Location: NL
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 Re: 1-2-spark
Saurus wrote: lpgo wrote: @Saurus I think theres an advantage 1-2-Spark vs 123 in every engine, theres a torque improvement from 800 to 3000rpm and yes you are right a map sensor will make it more fuel-efficient when not under full throttle, I think it will give you 2-3 litres a 100 km when cruising along, under full throttle there will be no diffrence.
As I'm mostly cruising (or at least trying to avoid sudden speed changes) to be a little more fuel efficient, I'm looking forward to this development. I'm quite serious about being a test driver for 1-2 Spark with vacuum advance  In the new pcb which I'm develloping the map sensor is integrated, so when the new pcb's arrive I need to programm it. In my mind it is already working, but most of the time reality is something else...... just like the advance table I will make a Map table with 10 values..... 30 (engine starving to less of air (see 45)) 45 (makes no sense for vacuum advance only used at iddling) 60 advance + 15 degrees 85 advance + 10 degrees 100 advance + 0 degrees 115 advance - 0 to - 5 degrees 130 advance -10 degrees 160 advance -15 degrees (maximum boost with a carburator and turbo) 200 don't do this with a 2cv 250 never do this with a standard 2cv values are coming out of my mind no garantee.......... normal airpressure will be 100 a 2cv iddling will be around 45/55 (butterfly closed in carburator so maximum vacuum) a 2cv cruising around 75/90 a 2cv on full trottle around 100 (no restriction of the butterfly in the carburator so normal air-pressure) a boosted 2cv engine above 100
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Russell wrote: Hi Geo, you've been one of the sites biggest attractions in recent years. Russ
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July 24th, 2012, 11:41 pm |
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lpgo
Firing on 1-2 Spark
Joined: November 8th, 2009, 5:42 pm Posts: 2847 Location: NL
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 Re: 1-2-spark
Next one please.......
Next in line is 1976 Dyane 6.52
Last wednesday Mark was here again, give him the newest version with all the new options......
So I will adapt the old unit from Mark to the newest version and will send it to "1976 Dyane 6.52" so he can power up his turbo 2cv.............
So here's a little to do instruction for mounting 1-2- spark at a 2cv engine........
Put a pen or 6mm drill into the flywheel like you do with original points, so now the engine has 8 degrees of advance........ (8 degrees before top dead center (tdc)
Now 1-2-Spark need the pickup at 45 degrees of advance (tdc). So all you have to do is this.
a 2cv flywheel has 107 tooth. 1 tooth at the flywheel is 360/107= 3.36 degrees
Youv'e got allready 8 degrees so you need 45-8 = 37 degrees
37/3.36 = 11.01 tooth
So you need to turn your flywheel 11 tooth anticlockwise (standing in front of the car looking at the fan) and then you have the engine at the position that the pickup (which is a plate 10 mm widht) is right under the sensor.
When you turned the flywheel 11 tooth anticlockwise the hole in the flywheel needs to be at around 5 past 12...... (so a littleto the right of the highest position)
I hope you understand what I'm trying to say.........
I put the sensor always at the left side of the starterengine (standing in front of the car blah blah) welding the sensor bracket to the inlet manifold.
Tomorrow I will make pictures it is easier to understand then.
Now the wires........ Red goes to the ignition + black goes to ground - blue goes to the coil (-) where normally the wire from the points go) the other wire to the coil must be + from ignition green (can go to a visa vacuumbox other wire in the vacuumbox goes to the ground) you don't need this to make your engine run but is saves you fuel when cruising. then a red and black wire to the sensor (shielded wire) black goes to the side where it is mounted, red at the other side.
the 2 grey wires is for tableswitch they are already installeld to the switch, the middel connection of the switch must go to - ground....
Now thats all, you can now fire up your car.
Heres also the newest software on which your unit will run.
Cheers
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Russell wrote: Hi Geo, you've been one of the sites biggest attractions in recent years. Russ
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August 6th, 2012, 10:55 pm |
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lpgo
Firing on 1-2 Spark
Joined: November 8th, 2009, 5:42 pm Posts: 2847 Location: NL
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 Re: 1-2-spark
Getting everything ready for shipping to 1976 Dyane 6.52 some picturs of the pickup mounting at the flywheel   and sensor bracket/sensor bracket position.   when mounting the pickup turn the engine by hand first and look if the pickup runs free from the engine!!!!!!when mounting the sensor, put a washer (.8 to 1.2mm thick )at the tip of the sensor, then push it on the pickup look that is paralel to the pickup ==== when it is welded there should be a space from .8 to 1.2 mm between pickup and sensor....
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Russell wrote: Hi Geo, you've been one of the sites biggest attractions in recent years. Russ
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August 9th, 2012, 12:26 pm |
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Russell
Firing on two.
Joined: November 29th, 2008, 10:05 pm Posts: 9259 Location: West Sussex, U.K.
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 Re: 1-2-spark
You know more than me about this kind of thing, so don't think I'm questioning your knowledge here, but shouldn't the flywheel be balanced again after you've welded anything to it? even if you were to just drill a couple of holes to remove the same amount of metal you've added?
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samfieldhouse wrote: What I like about I2F is that there is no pretence of democracy.
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August 9th, 2012, 12:39 pm |
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Bugster
Firing on two.
Joined: August 19th, 2011, 1:24 pm Posts: 158 Location: Warwickshire UK
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 Re: 1-2-spark
Russell wrote: You know more than me about this kind of thing, so don't think I'm questioning your knowledge here, but shouldn't the flywheel be balanced again after you've welded anything to it? even if you were to just drill a couple of holes to remove the same amount of metal you've added? Was wondering that myself  That's quite a bit of "out of balance" surely.
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August 9th, 2012, 12:57 pm |
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Tom Duckpower
Firing on two.
Joined: August 18th, 2009, 10:31 pm Posts: 1244 Location: Berkel-Enschot, Netherlands
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 Re: 1-2-spark
Russell wrote: You know more than me about this kind of thing, so don't think I'm questioning your knowledge here, but shouldn't the flywheel be balanced again after you've welded anything to it? even if you were to just drill a couple of holes to remove the same amount of metal you've added? even a welded (after it broke) cooling fan resulted in a more shuddering engine, and that is a weld more close to the centre of rotation
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 1986 Citroen 2CV6 Special Pick-Up 1964 Solex Oto Van der Heem
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August 9th, 2012, 1:22 pm |
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ChrisW
Firing on two.
Joined: February 21st, 2012, 9:01 pm Posts: 1136 Location: Avranches, Sud Manche, France
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 Re: 1-2-spark
As I am next for the 1-2 spark I had a look at my old VISA flywheel and on there is a quite a large metal spigot for the sensor and I can not see any holes drilled around it to counterbalance the weight. Maybe the crank had been altered to balance it!! What I am going to do is (as mine has he heavy flywheel and large flange by the starter ring) is drill a 6mm hole in the flywheel and thread it and lock tight a bolt with just head showing above flywheel (making sure head is below the starter ring) and then the only difference in weight will the head of the bolt. I will cut a head off and weigh it and drill slightly deeper hole /to thread to rebalance the flywheel.
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August 9th, 2012, 6:29 pm |
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4x4 SuperFinn
Firing on two.
Joined: February 13th, 2009, 10:34 am Posts: 584 Location: Franken, D
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 Re: 1-2-spark
I've not noticed any issues with balance on my 2CV.
When you look at how many 2CVs have fan blades missing or mud in the front of the fan you'd think that that would unbalance the engine but they seem to run all right as well.
New unit running well and I've seen dramatic increase in MPG. Now getting up to 49mpg!
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August 9th, 2012, 7:36 pm |
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lpgo
Firing on 1-2 Spark
Joined: November 8th, 2009, 5:42 pm Posts: 2847 Location: NL
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 Re: 1-2-spark
Dyane61976 wrote: As I am next for the 1-2 spark I had a look at my old VISA flywheel and on there is a quite a large metal spigot for the sensor and I can not see any holes drilled around it to counterbalance the weight. Maybe the crank had been altered to balance it!! What I am going to do is (as mine has he heavy flywheel and large flange by the starter ring) is drill a 6mm hole in the flywheel and thread it and lock tight a bolt with just head showing above flywheel (making sure head is below the starter ring) and then the only difference in weight will the head of the bolt. I will cut a head off and weigh it and drill slightly deeper hole /to thread to rebalance the flywheel. You don't need to put a bolt in. A 8mm hole say about 3mm deep in your flywheel will run great. You only need to change the two wires at the sensor red to the side of the sensor fixation. But ofcours your trick will work also.... I only use pickups for small flywheels.....
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Russell wrote: Hi Geo, you've been one of the sites biggest attractions in recent years. Russ
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August 9th, 2012, 8:49 pm |
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