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lpgo
Firing on 1-2 Spark
Joined: November 8th, 2009, 5:42 pm Posts: 2847 Location: NL
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
I know, I know, just teasing Is lowering of the front an option? angle of axles then are smaller (reading less stress)
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Russell wrote: Hi Geo, you've been one of the sites biggest attractions in recent years. Russ
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November 7th, 2012, 11:02 pm |
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Joolz
Firing on two.
Joined: January 5th, 2009, 5:48 am Posts: 1687 Location: Haven't a clue
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
I quite like the height it's at, it's a bit low but still usable, I guess maybe 100-150mm under the chassis. I'm going to keep with the original plan, grinding the bolt heads a bit while I look for some replacements.
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November 7th, 2012, 11:11 pm |
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Harley
Firing on two.
Joined: May 3rd, 2009, 11:40 am Posts: 816 Location: Melbourne, Australia.
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
How about THESE adaptors from Shadowsintonightmare? He also had special m9 hex head bolts machined for them. Harley
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samfieldhouse wrote: It is M9 for the shocks yes, the rest I'll check when next i'm underneath her. Ironically, this will be valentines day.
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November 8th, 2012, 3:55 am |
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Sean
Firing on two.
Joined: April 22nd, 2009, 11:06 pm Posts: 3684 Location: Ecosse
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
Joolz wrote: That's what I was going to use, I still wasn't sure there would be much room... I just went and measured them. An M10 socket head is 16mm dia, and looking at the pic from the previous page again, the thick washer is 17mm and the flange under the head is 19mm. I'd have to go and measure the clearance on the car but I think the head would touch the gaiter. Whether by enough to cause an issue I'm not sure yet. ] the head of an allen bolt is only going to touch the gaiter at the ligarex clip where its all static your bolts look like they touch the gaiter out at the articulated part. bag of M10 allen bolts = peanuts your making things too complicated ive taken plenty M9 thread out to m10 with no problems
_________________ Kissing the Lash
 "Any advice of a technical nature is given on the understanding that I've actually done this shit, not just read about it in D*lly club mag some time ago.
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November 8th, 2012, 8:55 am |
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Joolz
Firing on two.
Joined: January 5th, 2009, 5:48 am Posts: 1687 Location: Haven't a clue
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
Sean wrote: the head of an allen bolt is only going to touch the gaiter at the ligarex clip where its all static your bolts look like they touch the gaiter out at the articulated part I know, you're right, I was worried that the bolt head would be pressed hard against the gaiter, but even then it would be unlikely to cause any problem. As it is I've just drilled out one of the holes in the flange from the broken joint and actually an M10 socket head fits fine. My only remaining worry is needing to replace a shaft away while travelling and the extra faf involved with getting a replacement shaft drilled before I could fit it. Quote: bag of M10 allen bolts = peanuts your making things too complicated ive taken plenty M9 thread out to m10 with no problems Yeah, I know it's not really difficult, especially as the gearbox is probably coming out again before too long, and if I can't find M9 bolts that's what I'll do.
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November 8th, 2012, 6:29 pm |
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lpgo
Firing on 1-2 Spark
Joined: November 8th, 2009, 5:42 pm Posts: 2847 Location: NL
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
Quote: My only remaining worry is needing to replace a shaft away while travelling and the extra faf involved with getting a replacement shaft drilled before I could fit it Whats the point, can't you prepare a replacementshaft at home before you leave????? or maybee 2 or 3 when you are really worried...... drilling 6 holes in a shaft can't bee that difficult when you can install a beemer engine in a 2cv????
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Russell wrote: Hi Geo, you've been one of the sites biggest attractions in recent years. Russ
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November 8th, 2012, 10:34 pm |
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subarupete
Firing on two.
Joined: March 5th, 2009, 6:23 pm Posts: 2247 Location: Near Monmouth
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
Adaptors another option http://www.snail.s4.bizhat.com/snail-ft ... sc-30.htmlThickness 10/15mm? Easier to machine, no counter bore required, less bolts.
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November 12th, 2012, 8:02 pm |
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Joolz
Firing on two.
Joined: January 5th, 2009, 5:48 am Posts: 1687 Location: Haven't a clue
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
Nice post timing Pete!  Thanks for the suggestion, I think I may have sorted them now, as well as grinding the heads down a little, I checked to see if they would still tighten up with a thinner washer. Turns out they work fine without the washer in there at all...  . So I've got an extra 5mm clearance for no cost and minimal effort.
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November 12th, 2012, 8:39 pm |
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Rusty
Firing on two.
Joined: January 12th, 2010, 10:33 am Posts: 193 Location: Koudekerk ad Rijn, Netherlands
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
all of us been thinking how to solve your problem (I even asked our supplier at work) and it turns out it doesn't need any solving...  now, go and drive it (and keep the pieces together  ) greetzzzzzzzzz Rusty
_________________ bitten by the Citobug...
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November 13th, 2012, 8:50 am |
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Joolz
Firing on two.
Joined: January 5th, 2009, 5:48 am Posts: 1687 Location: Haven't a clue
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 Re: Joolz's Red One
I'm going to run this past you just incase I'm missing something.
I've got a digital voltmeter in the car and the alternator usually puts out about 14v, (13.8v-14.1v) which is what it's suposed to. When I put the lights on it drops to about 13.6v, and charging at that means it turns over really slowly next time I start it. Now this might be expected with an underpowered alternator, but I've only got 60Watt headlamp bulbs and no extra lights, so they shouldn't need any more than 12Amps, and my alternator is supposedly 50Amps, which is more than the standard 2cv one.
I've been thinking about upgrading the alternator internals, I think I know a way of doing this, but surely it shouldn't need it. Is there something else going on, why is the voltage dropping when I draw only 12amp plus engine, any ideas?
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November 17th, 2012, 2:55 pm |
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