I know, I know, just teasing

Is lowering of the front an option? angle of axles then are smaller (reading less stress)

I quite like the height it's at, it's a bit low but still usable, I guess maybe 100-150mm under the chassis. I'm going to keep with the original plan, grinding the bolt heads a bit while I look for some replacements.

How about THESE adaptors from Shadowsintonightmare?
He also had special m9 hex head bolts machined for them.

Harley

the head of an allen bolt is only going to touch the gaiter at the ligarex clip where its all static your bolts look like they touch the gaiter out at the articulated part.

bag of M10 allen bolts = peanuts your making things too complicated ive taken plenty M9 thread out to m10 with no problems

I know, you're right, I was worried that the bolt head would be pressed hard against the gaiter, but even then it would be unlikely to cause any problem.
As it is I've just drilled out one of the holes in the flange from the broken joint and actually an M10 socket head fits fine. My only remaining worry is needing to replace a shaft away while travelling and the extra faf involved with getting a replacement shaft drilled before I could fit it.

Yeah, I know it's not really difficult, especially as the gearbox is probably coming out again before too long, and if I can't find M9 bolts that's what I'll do.

Whats the point, can't you prepare a replacementshaft at home before you leave?????
or maybee 2 or 3 when you are really worried......

drilling 6 holes in a shaft can't bee that difficult when you can install a beemer engine in a 2cv????

Adaptors another option

http://www.snail.s4.bizhat.com/snail-ft ... sc-30.html

Thickness 10/15mm? Easier to machine, no counter bore required, less bolts.

Nice post timing Pete! Thanks for the suggestion, I think I may have sorted them now, as well as grinding the heads down a little, I checked to see if they would still tighten up with a thinner washer. Turns out they work fine without the washer in there at all... . So I've got an extra 5mm clearance for no cost and minimal effort.

all of us been thinking how to solve your problem (I even asked our supplier at work) and it turns out it doesn't need any solving...

now, go and drive it (and keep the pieces together )

greetzzzzzzzzz

Rusty

I'm going to run this past you just incase I'm missing something.

I've got a digital voltmeter in the car and the alternator usually puts out about 14v, (13.8v-14.1v) which is what it's suposed to. When I put the lights on it drops to about 13.6v, and charging at that means it turns over really slowly next time I start it. Now this might be expected with an underpowered alternator, but I've only got 60Watt headlamp bulbs and no extra lights, so they shouldn't need any more than 12Amps, and my alternator is supposedly 50Amps, which is more than the standard 2cv one.

I've been thinking about upgrading the alternator internals, I think I know a way of doing this, but surely it shouldn't need it. Is there something else going on, why is the voltage dropping when I draw only 12amp plus engine, any ideas?