Yes it's true that the engine doesn't red line until 7,500 rpm, but I very rarely take it there. On an average journey it's unlikely I'd rev it past 6,000, and even that would be rare and for very brief periods of time.

So I've changed the dash warning lights. Since putting the engine in I've been using the light cluster that came with it, mostly to replace the lights that were where the rev counter now is, Oil pressure, Brake fluid, Main beam, and also Charging. But it had always looked a bit clumsy and was only ever meant to be temporary.



I bought 4 warning lights on ebay, £6.49 inc postage, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110737148525? ... _500wt_847 They're not actually as as cheap looking as I expected, but are very small and very bright. Seen here in the prototype surround...



And then ready to fit with the old one for comparison.



And finally installed. From left to right, Oil, Charging, Brake fluid, Main beam. I deliberately positioned the main beam light at the end so that it's behind my hand when I'm driving, although I suspect it may still be too bright at night. Am I right in thinking that it isn't possible to dim an LED, they just go out when the voltage drops bellow a certain point, don't they?

You can dim a normal led, but yours a 12 volt I think, but I think it will work to Try a risistor
330 ohm or2 or 3 in serie you should notice a difrence. You can take a potmeter (adjustable resistor) to make it work (all old dashboards have one (ds,gs bx ))

bloody starship enterprise flight deck vibe goin on there

like the led simplification

Thanks Lpgo, yes they're 12v but they have a resistor inside so probably 5v on the LED. If you think it might work I'll try a variable resistor, I'm sure I have one somewhere.

Well I've never been so happy to have a broken clutch . I had to start the day by strimming the 'patio' to give me somewhere to work. Once the engine was out I was both relieved and confused by the fact the input shaft was still connected to the wheels and the clutch looked normal, closer inspection revealed that the splines in the center of the clutch were turning independently to the rest of the friction plate. Yes the engine looks a bit precarious balanced on a log, but lowering it all the way to the ground and then picking it up again would have killed me. I left the loom on the engine this time, since I changed the wiring to the idiot lights, it's now slightly easier to disconnect loom from the car than it is from the engine.




The old clutch is a Valeo and the center part is made separately and pressed in, it seems that dropping it down a cog into 3rd and flooring it for an overtake was enough to separate the two. You can't really tell from the picture as it's still held in place, but that center bit turns on it's own.




This is the new plate, from some Italian manufacturer and the center is all one piece. Also note that I've filed a lead on the splines, it makes engaging them much easier and is something that I think is worth doing if you're going to be fitting the engine on your own and without a crane.



I was quite surprised by the face of the old clutch, I'm not sure if you can tell from the pic but it was very pitted looking, the flywheel was the same.

Glad it wasn't mega serious. You know what I'd have done with the old clutch don't you?

Have you got a warning light that comes on in another 100 miles ?....it will then flash at 602

Sorry Squeeze, those pics are a couple of weeks old now, unfortunately I missed 602, it's now up around 1200.

Russ, would it have involved the welder by any chance? Yes that thought crossed my mind, but I'd be worried that it would shrink the splines enough to make refitting the engine even harder than normal, if it would even go together at all. I might as well give it a go and then try it on a spare gearbox. There's also the chance it may then break around the weld, and to be honest it's inconvenient to say the least.

I think you did the right thing (new clutchplate in 1 piece) I think theres a lot stress at the Citroen parts propelled by the Beemer engine.

On the otherhand I don't want to upset you but maybe it was a safety feature, now only your clutchplate is gone; with a clutchplate out of 1 piece it will be your gearbox which strikes??????