As can be seen elsewhere in the technical forum, many will have noticed I'm learning to rebuild my 2cv via correspondence course (i.e. posting my queries/problems and having them answered to which I'm very grateful (Still on going! Slow learner )

I am now toying with the idea of converting my 2cv to LHD. I couldn't do it myself as I can't weld but I would like to be armed with the knowledge of what the procedure is so that I don't get a lot of BS when asking for quotes.
I have a LHD steering rack which I can install, LHD light bar.
As far as I can tell, all that needs doing, welding wise is for the instrument panel/steering column support installing on the left hand side and the master cylinder support to be welded into place and of course the pedals moved over (haven't investigated if there any holes on the L/H side to take these.
I also have a wiring loom from LHD car but I would imagine the existing could be used. The only other thing I can identify is the anchorage on the cooling fan shroud to take the spring from the carb.

Can anybody offer any words of advice? Should I leave well alone?
Perhaps I should add that I live in France, driving a convential RHD car over here is reasonably easy because you have the power to assist in dogy situations, not so easy in a 2cv. (That's what I'll tell the Missus so I can justify the expense but I just feel a 2cv should be LHD just like a mini or morris minor should always be right hooker!)

Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom! (Shortly to post a question on lead loading! I'm sure it's not as easy as described)

Of course the spring for the carb won't be a problem as the carb won't move but the fitting on the baulkhead for the clutch cable would.

Does the car need any repair anyway (they usually do ), in which case it could be easier to fit a LHD bulkhead.

Otherwise wiring loom, clutch, throttle, choke, and speedo cables would all need new holes in the bulkhead, and some of the cables may turn out to be the wrong length on the other side. Hand brake and gear lever positions would stay the same although the LHD gear lever is slightly different, so you may find it becomes more awkward to use. Brake lines would need changing, might as well fit new LHD ones.

I guess it'll be easier, quicker and cheaper to buy a LHD 2CV.

I'd swap the gear lever over as well. As someone else said, the RHD gear lever is cranked over slightly differently from the LHD one (just as the Dyane lever feels different from the 2CV one). You can easily make do, but I think it'll feel more correct with the proper LHD one. They seem to be very cheap secondhand. At least, there always seem to be loads around.

P.S. You won't be selling the rack to me, then?

Joolz
"Does the car need any repair anyway (they usually do ), in which case it could be easier to fit a LHD bulkhead."
The car doesn't need any major repairs. I bought it some 16 years ago with 24k on the clock, one previous owner who kept it garaged. On acquisition I waxoyled everywhere. All that needs doing is one rear seat belt anchorage and some small holes under windscreen rubber. (I've always waxoyled under all the window rubbers)

Take your point about holes required for various cables and the different lengths. Thanks.

Jonathan
''I guess it'll be easier, quicker and cheaper to buy a LHD 2CV.''

I think I would have to go a long way to find a 2cv in the condition mine is in and here in France thay certainly are'nt cheap.

''P.S. You won't be selling the rack to me, then?''

Wouldn't say that, Jacqueslemac. I'll do you a good deal if you threw in a rouge C15 weekender

Steve,
I have a feeling that the battery box also needs to be relocated.

Haven't got one here at the moment ( just a Mehari 'visiting' from Bretagne ) but I'm fairly sure it sits higher up and there's sheet metal reinforcement added around where the tray is set into the bulkhead.

Much better than RHD, not just because the bulkhead doesn't crack as the RHD type do, but also removing the battery tray gives access to the rear of the instrument panel and (at least some of ) the wiring.

Ken

p.s. The master cylinder assembly is bolted in place, but the clutch cable abutment is welded to the bulkhead, iirc.

Thanks Ken. I think you're probably right on the battery box. I kinda remember looking into this some years ago. Now, by eye, transfering the master cylinder over it looks like the battery box is to low. I don't really want to have a new upper baulkhead welded in, all the bodywork that the baulkhead is attached to is in first class nick.
Perhaps when I've rebuilt the engine I'll have the extra oomph to get me out of tricky situatuions