I thoguht whilst I was "servicing" my car id do a few pics and a rough description to help anyone who wants to have a go or wants to learn roughly what to do.
you will need the following
A socket set with a decent variety of sizes,
A set of feeler gauges,
Oil Filter undoer
Haines Manuel
service kit, oil filter, plugs, washer for sump plug, oil, and i tend to keep rocker cover gaskets "in stock" in the garage incase of a disaster
right
firstly you need to warm the engine up, to make the oil lest viscous,
After the engine is warm, you can now dump the oil, you will need to find a suitable container to catch about 4 litres of oil, I find a battery box of a boat is perfect,
place under car, and then crack undone the 21mm bolt on the bottom of the sump
now, undo the oil filter with your undoer, (oil filter wrench, or a screwdriver stabbed through, but messy)
its best if you have an undertray to place a chinese tub under the oil filter, to catch the oil, if you do not have an undertray i find the battery box catches both
next, undo the 12mm nuts on the rocker covers, and remove,
again, chinese tubs balance perfectly underneath to catch the oil, so i use one of those each side again.
its at this point in which you refer to RT's thread of doing the valve clearences, but the engine needs to be cold for that
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2754after doing the valve clearences, and putting the rocker covers back on, here comes is the next bit
use a plug spanner to take out the plugs, look at the photo above to see where the plugs where
and get the new plugs ready to go in.
I
personally tend to grease the threads of the plugs, from habit on working on outboards,
when you put the new plugs back in do not over tighten them, The correct torque setting is 18-21ft lbs or contact plus 1/2 to 2/3 turn, gapped at 0.65mm
I then prep to fill it up with oil
this is the oil i use,
I find one of these 1 litre jugs is helpful,
so now we are prepared to put oil in, put the plug back in, with a new washer, and do it up reasonably tight, about 25 ftlb,
so firstly, put a few drops of oil into the filter, and lube up the seal with your finger, and replace oil filter back to the engine. do it up hand tight, hand tight, or contact and 1/2 a turn, I do mine up so so loose when I change the oil I can undo it easily, normally by hand too!
so with the plug back in and the oil filter replaced, its time to put the oil in
I think the haines manuel specifies about 2.5L, + 4L for each rocker cover removed (need someone to confirm from haines manuel please
)
pour it in, through the oil breather,
you wont need to check the level until after 2 litres, check it, put some more in, by judgement, check oil again, and keep going until the oil is at the top of the marker on the dipstick.
Run the engine up for 2 minutes, shut it down, and check level, its more than likely going to be below the bottom mark, so top up as appropiate, and your aiming between the two but i always get it just over the top mark by a tiny bit
Sorry if its crap but I thought I would do a how to considering I was doing this, and hope it helps someone, but please correct or adjust as appropiate,
points and condesner
First things first,
whip out your tools, youll need, a set of feeler gauges, flathead screwdriver, 11mm socket, 14mm socket and a 8mm socket, a test lamp of some descritpion, (ill come to that in a minute) and some patience
now, firstly, the test light, this is jumping ahead of the game a bit, but i thought id explain about how to make a testlight,
thats not a helpful picture, but ill draw a shit diagram in paint to explain better
so as you can see from my highly sofisticated and detailed diagram, the test lamp (i used a bulb the same as used in the interia light on the later 2cv's, as its low power, i simply clamped it with two crocidile clips,) is attached directly to the battery, not via the coil's live feed, i do it this way, against what the haines manuel says because its easier, and you dont need the ignition on. the earth wire, as hopefully shown in the diagram is earthed through the earth on the coil (which goes to the points box)
pop it off the coil and shove the wire in the connecter, simples
now your test lamp is set up, jumping ahead of things a bit, its time to remove the fan and other bits that are in the way, unless you own a ami, or dyane, spend some time removing all the bits in the way, if your a 2cv owner, flip the bonnet open
so with access to the fan, undo the 4 11m bolts, holding the fan guard on, and remove fan guard.
then, remove the 14mm bolt from inside the centre of the fan, you will need a extender bar, 3/8 drive i find works best, the 1/2 drive 14mm socket wont fit down there,
Once the bolt is removed, (sorry about the lack of photos) you will have the fun task of removing the fan.
Since the shaft is tapered, the fan works is way on getting more and more securely stuck on.
I find, a 1/2" extender bar in the centre, and tapping in 45 degree angles, sharp short hits, on the extender bar always gets the fan off, you should slacken the alternator belt off, but I find its not neccasary, but its advisable to.
Now you have removed the fan, you will need to go about removing the bars and "apron" covering the points box, first, remove the bars, there 8mm, and easiest with a 1/4 drive,
There is 7, 8mm bolts to remove, although on my car only 6, as I dont tend to bother with the very bottom one as its a faf to remove and put back in so I leave it out
Moving onwards, you will to next remove the points box,
remove the blue spare connection on the RHS of the points box, and then undo the 2 11mm bolts, before you do this, its a good idea to mark the a line above the points box (scratch with screwdriver along above the top,) so that when you relocate the points box youve got a rough guide to start to set the timing with. Removing these 2 bolts will render the points box free for removel.
Remove the 3 screws holding the lid on, and be careful not to tear the gasket when you remove the lid.
You can now set about removing the points and condenser, from the box. Its best to take note, or take a photo the first time you perform this, as remebering it can be tricky sometimes
Make sure you dont get new and old confused also
Also, its best to use the valeo points and condesner set, if your going to replace the points, do the condenser too,
After you have re assembled the points and condenser, (make sure the screw holding the points gap is loose enough to make an adjustment) in the points box, place the points box back into the circular slot it came out of, put the two 11mm bolts back in, and do them up hand tight and then back a teeny bit (so the points box will move when it recieves a sharp but light tap from the soft end of a screwdriver)
you will need the lid off still....
At this point, put the 14mm bolt into the end of the shaft, in which it came from, and find a 14mm socket and a ratchet, turn the engine over clockwise (make sure its out of gear
) until the heals of the cam are vertical, (opening the points) and set your feeler gauge to 0.40mm, adjust the gap until you have achieved the correct gap, it should just grip ever so slightly on the feeler gauge, a light drag, but make sure that your not moving the bottom point, or that they snap shut when you pull the feeler gauge out,
now the points are done, its time to set the timing
Now, if you have a strobe, use it, I have one, I know how to use it, sort of, you put the wires on and press the button, but thats all im capable of, so im going to talk through the method of using a test lamp....
so, now we have our test lamp still wired up, its time to find the "peg in a flywheel" mark, you will need something longish and 6mm, ish, a nail is quite good.
The hole to poke this through is in the engine bellhousing, if you go to the RHS of the air filter, (on a 2cv) and then down, work your hand through the manifold, and down south, there is a hole (parden the pun
) you need to insert your rod into the hole down south
turn the engine with the 14mm socket, until the nail or your rod slips into a hole locking the flywheel. This gives your static timing point (i believe, always get my words muddled)
i find, for my engine, spot in timing is achieved by then progressing the flywheel clockwise as you look at it from the front to the back of the car, by 1 and3/4 teeth ish, and then i mark two datum points, on starter and on belhousing, this is the marks I use with my timing light.
Hopefully ive explained that ok and it makes sense, but that all being in order, we now need to get the light to go out as the flywheel passes these two datum points, it needs to be luminated when the two marks light up but out as soon as it moves round from them.
Its best to set the marks to line up, and gently tap the points box rotating it until the light comes on (the light might already be on!) when the lines line up, watch the lines, and very very slowly turn you 14mm socket, rotating the flywheel very slowly, and if the light doesnt go out straight away (1 tooth after the datum points) then you need to adjust the timing which is likely going to be the case, go back to the datum points, and then advance by one tooth from the lines, and tap the box on the LHS until the light goes out, then rotate the engine anti clockwise on the 14mm socket, to line the marks back up, check again, does the light go out straight after the mark? if not keep adjusting until it does
once you have it set, and your happy, keep the two marks lined up, and slowly and v gently do the 11mm bolts up, you will more than likely move the box whilst doing them up, so i find 1/4 a turn at a time per bolt does it fine, so do one up by 1/4 turn then the other and so forth
if you are happy, re attach the fan, hooking the alternator belt around the hub of the fan as you replace onto its shaft, and do the 14mm bolt up tightish..
replace fan guard, and your done,
Im sure thats not the best guide, but it might be helpful to someone....
corrections and comments on this also please
