RE; 1983 Charleston
We seem to be in deep dodo again. Have finally reassembled everything-almost. You never seem to be able to complete everything. Engine is running after replacement with a spare.Problem is that after disturbing all the wiring, fitting a 123, checking the panel connections and installing a new fuse box to take modern fuses, I have a short. which has blown several fuses up to and including 25A. I know it is almost impossible to diagnose someones electrical problems this way, but I am stuck. Here are the details and I hope someone has some suggestions.
1. I have a ground indication on the second fuse from the top(referring to the old system of three fuses used in the old 4 fuse box where the top fuse holder is not used) The ground is a yellow wire that apparently serves the panel. I have no panel lites or oil pressure or wind screen wipers.
2. The headlites and tail lites work fine, but I have no turn signals. The starter works.
3. I have disassembled the panel and checked all circuits.
4. The wiring on the 3 way ignition switch has been checked
5. All red wires have been individually disconnected and checked for grounds.
6. The panel indicator bulbs are good.
I have spent two days trying to locate the fault and I'm really P Oed that I cant find it.
P.S. 2cv wiring diaqrams are anything but schemetics. I guess no one in France was color blind

What have you disturbed since it last all worked? Does the fuse blow as soon as you turn the ignition on, or when you try to operate something?

Take the fuse out and see what doesn't work. Then start checking those circuits. Putting higher rated fuses in will just allow the smoke to escape from the wires and once that happens they won't work any more....

It's not something daft like the live feed for the indicators shorting out on the headlamp adjuster? Or the feed for the canister touching the bulkhead?

This photograph is of a German registered car, so there are some small differences in which items are fed by the lower two fuses.

However, it seems to me that the problem may be the result of connections behind the dash having been mixed up...

One possibility would be the three wires to the wiper motor switch, so perhaps it's worth disconnecting those temporarily, to see if the fuse still blows.

http://www.entmontage.de/elektrik02_e.htm



Here are the connections of the fuse box.
The fuses from top to bottom:
Grey cable with yellow marking - 16A - (permanently live) stop light, warning lights, interior lighting.
Yellow cable with blue marking - 10A - (ignition switched) windshield wiper, turn signal, fuel gauge, brake fluid control light, Choke control light, voltage control display, oil control light, current generator, back-up light.
Green cable with red marking - 10A - parking light right, taillight right.
Green cable without marking - 10A - parking light left, taillight left, dashboard light.

Fuse blows when ign turned on.
Since the fuse blows every time, its always out and the following dont work
Wipers, Oil pressure lite, Panel lite, turn signals, brake fluid test lamp.
I cant see any exposed wiring that could short out on chassis, but then again with that "bowl of spaghetti" behind the panel, the possibility exists. However, there isnt a major feed wire back there and since all of the above dont work, a major wire must be shorted.
The German fuse box is not the same.
See fotos of new fuse box which very carefully replaced the two original boxes.
The lower four fuses are for the Headlites/tailites.
The top fuse position is unused

simple trick!!!!

take out the broken fuse, put a light (12volt ) with 1 lead (cable) into 1 leg of the fuse the other lead into the other fuse leg. When you turn on ignition the light will shine meaning you have a shortcut. But you don't blow fuses now only the light will shine. Now you have to search everything till the light goes out, at that moment you found your problem and you can fix it.......

When your light stays out you can put your fuse back.

p.s. insted of a light, you can use a multymeter put it on resistance or a buzzer

I never understood the idea of removing the original Citroen fuse box, replacing it with other types, silly really.
If I'm going to be of any help, start again. Work around each circuit using test lamp and multi meter sorting out each switch.
Good luck

It's quite understandable to fit a modern blade type fuse box, the type fitted to 2CV are getting much harder to find, but almost all petrol stations in the UK sell blade type fuses.

and on a raid the blades are less prone to dust and vibration.


and as Jonathan said almost every petrol station, parts store, AA van, and poundland express sells them