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Tom
Firing on two.
Joined: July 27th, 2009, 10:43 am Posts: 306
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 Exhaust manifold removal.
Hi all, I could do with a little advice, I really want to remove my exhaust manifolds as i want to replace the gaskets. Trouble is, the studs/nuts are pretty gone and im worried that i would never get them to move, also, will i need to drill the remainders out in the heads Tom
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getting there slowly.
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January 17th, 2011, 12:38 am |
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Jonathan
Firing on two.
Joined: January 1st, 2009, 7:37 pm Posts: 4708 Location: Disunited Kingdom
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
Good Luck......You'll need it. 
_________________ 1988 built (1989 F-registered) Citroën 2CV-Six 2013 (63-Plate) VW Golf SE 1.4TSI BMT DSG7 1932 Morris Minor Open Two-Seater (The £100 car).

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January 17th, 2011, 12:47 am |
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Tom
Firing on two.
Joined: July 27th, 2009, 10:43 am Posts: 306
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
yars. I know but, would be good to get them off.
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getting there slowly.
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January 17th, 2011, 12:48 am |
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Rhythm Thief
Firing on two.
Joined: March 10th, 2010, 12:37 am Posts: 1927 Location: Alone in my polytunnel with my pitiful competition onions
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
Go steady with them and you should be ok. Get onto ECAS 2CV parts (other suppliers are available, but frankly, they're not as good  ) before you start and get hold of four new exhaust manifold studs, four new brass manifold nuts and eight new star washers. You'll need a single hex socket and lots of WD40 to shift the exhaust bolts, inlet ones are usually easier to remove since that end is less hot. Obviously. Once you've got the manifold off, lock two of your new nuts up against each other on the exhaust studs and wind them out. Put your new ones in being careful not to strip the aluminium thread, which is very easily done. (This also goes for refitting the inlet manifold bolts.) Clean up the mating faces on the heads and the manifold, checking to see if the manifold face has been eaten away by leaking exhaust gases. Stick your new gaskets on with a light smear of copper grease on either side, put the manifold back on (which can be a bit of a struggle, but it goes on eventually), tighten everything back up (DON'T use the torque settings in the Haynes manual) and that's that. You might have to drill out a manifold stud if you can't undo it with the "two nut" technique. (Or, of course, your manifold studs might be in good condition and not require replacing at all, but in my experience it's worth having new studs and nuts when you do this job since they cost sod-all and the old ones are generally knackered.) If you do have to do this, just be extremely careful not to knacker the thread up, or at least make sure you buy an M7 helicoil kit before you start drilling. Good luck!
_________________ The best things in life aren't things.
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January 17th, 2011, 12:59 am |
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ken
Agony Aunt - You have a car problem? Speak to Ken
Joined: March 6th, 2009, 1:40 am Posts: 3675
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
If the nuts are very rusty, which is normally the case, I find it's safer to split them with a small, sharp chisel than trying to undo them as it's easy to shear a stud.
Personal preference, but I put the exhaust gaskets in 'dry' and use ordinary grease to hold the inlet gaskets in place. Once it's up and running again, don't forget to check the torque on the exhaust manifold nuts after 500 miles use and once more at about 1500 miles as they do settle in.
ken
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January 17th, 2011, 1:17 am |
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Nelsthebass
Firing on two.
Joined: October 5th, 2009, 8:22 pm Posts: 1415 Location: Stone, Staffs
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
Got the very rusty studs off Dudleys original engine with Mole Grips and about 1/2 a can of butane in my blowtorch - get them red hot and then carefully apply turning force..
_________________ 1987 2CV Special 2014 Suzuki Swift Sport 2015 Lexus NX300h 1966 Ami Break
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January 18th, 2011, 10:23 pm |
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Joolz
Firing on two.
Joined: January 5th, 2009, 5:48 am Posts: 1687 Location: Haven't a clue
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
If the exhaust nuts feel like they don't want to move, DO NOT keep applying more torque until the stud breaks, it will be your free pass to a whole world of pain.
Much better to destroy the nut getting it off, either splitting it with a chisel as Ken said, cutting one side off with a grinder or hacksaw, or drilling into it to weaken it before knocking it off with a chisel.
Even when it looks realy crusty from the outside, the thread under the nut is usually quite serviceable, so don't try and get the studs out unless they come out on their own. Minor damage to the thread isn't too much to worry about, it can be cleaned up afterwards with a die nut.
DO NOT BREAK THE STUD!
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January 19th, 2011, 2:04 pm |
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dollywobbler
2CV Fan
Joined: October 6th, 2010, 10:25 am Posts: 37 Location: Mid-Wales
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
Have to agree with the caution. On my spare engine, I managed to get the nuts off by smashing an old 10mm socket onto the nuts. With a good soaking in penetrating oil (proper stuff, not just WD40) the nuts came off with no hassle.
Later tried removing a stud on another head and it sheared very easily.
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 1986 2CV6 Dolly 'Elly' 1986 BX RD estate
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January 19th, 2011, 4:08 pm |
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Sean
Firing on two.
Joined: April 22nd, 2009, 11:06 pm Posts: 3684 Location: Ecosse
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
do not try to remove a stud unless you have to the bottom of it is exposed and so will be corroded into the alloy, they always drag half the alloy thread out with them. sean
_________________ Kissing the Lash
 "Any advice of a technical nature is given on the understanding that I've actually done this shit, not just read about it in D*lly club mag some time ago.
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January 19th, 2011, 4:36 pm |
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petitepoupée
Firing on two.
Joined: November 25th, 2010, 6:02 am Posts: 125 Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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 Re: Exhaust manifold removal.
As a penetrating fluid, one of the most effective is Eucalyptus Oil (it smells good, too!). Even more effective than the Aussie cricket team. 
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January 19th, 2011, 11:58 pm |
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