I have not had a chance to see if the resin filled Harley Davidson ignition coil that someone suggested fixed my hot start problem.

First of all it has yet to get above 29 C (hot start issues start happening with ALL of my carbureted cars at 29 C) and I have not parked it and came back out 15 minutes later and tried to start it. I will test this one day and report back along with the ambient temperature.

Since the plug wires exit the rear instead of the sides, the plug wires were not long enough to reach the new coil so I had to install longer 8 mm custom plug wires which was probably not a bad idea. And new spark plugs.



One plug was particularly hard to remove because the heat shield is a bit misaligned about 1 mm which was just enough to cause me problems. I think I took a file and shaved a bit off or used the factory plug socket from my Fiat Spider tool kit which I also used one time to remove a stubborn spark plug from a Mitsubishi V6 engine!

Also to my surprise, I was going to install new breaker points when I discovered the previous owner had already installed a 123 electronic ignition kit after I removed the fan.

So the ignition seems to be covered.

My 2CV has been kept in the garage this winter but have been driving it to work for the past couple of days.

It was around 19C today. I am not running a grill blanket.

Since I've been driving my Subaru through the winter, I'm having to get readjusted to driving a 29 HP carbureted car.

I've noticed a couple of things.

The engine has no issues cold starting but is quite sluggish in cooler weather.
Like it needs a larger main jet.

What makes it worse is having the choke engaged, even just slightly. Once I get going, I can push it in all the way and the engine picks up power but is still sluggish.

I can't seem to drive with the choke engaged at all. Normally I would assume this would compensate until the engine warmed up a bit but seems to just cause a restriction. But, even running a cold engine, it has never stalled.

Once I have driven about 4 miles or 6.5 KM it does begin to run better.

So I am wondering, do I need a grill blanket? That should increase the temperature inside the engine compartment.

At what ambient temperature is this blanket recommended and at what temperature would it cause the engine to run too hot?

I have seen it 2C in the morning and 18C in the afternoon in the spring. This German guy who worked at our plant said the temperature varied more here than in Germany and was hard to get used to.

Years ago when I built the Turbo Yugo, I used the 1100cc carburetor and re-jetted the secondary for the turbo but never though much about re-jetting the primary. I don't know why considering I stepped up to a 1500 cc engine. When it was 35C, the engine ran fine under cruise. At 15C the engine would buck and carry on under cruise. At 0C, the engine would cruise really rough and backfire due to the lean condition.

Stepping up from a 100 to a 125 (Weber) primary solved the problem.

I might need to check to make sure the accelerator pump is working. I did have one go bad (or was leaking) on a Fiat 131 Weber and it exhibited similar symptoms.

Is the mixture ok? Because normally in cool weather you need the choke. But if you can't almost use it, possibly the mixture is to rich. How much are you above sea level?

Hi

Just my 2 sparks worth.

You appear to have conflicting symptoms!

2 simple things to check.

Is the choke turning off completely?

Undo the adjustment screw on the cable and pull the choke so that it is completely off. Make sure the knob is positioned correctly in the car, and then retighten the screw.

Do you have an air leak?

I've heard tale of the nuts holding the carb down coming loose. There are four. Two of them are hard to get at and therefore get neglected. Do not overtightened them.

Other than gaskets leaking, something common to ageing 2cv's is the choke pull off diaphragm failing. Standing at the front and looking at the carb, its on the top left and has a small rod coming out of it.. Its original purpose was to remove excessive choke under high vacuum.
The diaphragm fails with time, and allows false air into the carb. A simple check and/or cure, is to remove the 2 screws holding it on, and place a piece of tape along the length and then re screw it back on. Not a permanent fix though as I think I need to do mine again.

Worth a try

All good ideas.

I'll check the base nuts on the carburetor.

I think the mixture is OK. When I pulled the plugs they looked fine to me so It doesn't appear to be running rich or lean. Since the engine is not backfiring when cold, I'm assuming it's not running too lean.

I haven't really checked the fuel consumption. I live at 1200 feet above sea level BTW.

I'll check the position of the choke when it's off. Usually in order to start the engine when cold, I'll have to pull the choke out about 3/4 of the way. Then once it's starts, push it back in to where it's like a hair closed. Even at this point this seems like too much of a restriction.

The accelerator pump should be easy to check. Have someone pump the accelerator and if it squirts fuel down the venturi it's working. if it's squirting fuel externally, then I have a busted diaphragm.

In the case of the Weber I had on my Fiat 131, the diaphragm was busted. So every time I'd mash down on the accelerator, the car would bog down because fuel was leaking externally around the actuator instead of going into the motor.

I have noticed some fuel stains on the intake manifold like there might be fuel leaking from somewhere. I realize this is a Solex carburetor but every car I've owned with a Weber carburetor tends to leak some fuel from the throttle shaft seals. IDFs seem the worst.

But when I pop the bonnet I can't see any fuel leakage. Nor can I smell any fuel going down the road.

This goes back to my theory that the fuel boils after I shut the engine off and it takes quite a bit of cranking before it starts in order to refill the fuel bowel

Whilst your tinkering in that area, check your airfilter as I recall you had some issues there.

Not part of your problem, but just out of interest and because people do on occasion, put them back wrong. When you have removed the elbow from air filter to carb to check the acceleration pump, with assistance or a heavy object, put the accelerator pedal to the floor and look down the carb to see if both the butterfly's are fully open.

On the carb is a very little spring that pulls the choke open when shut off. They tend to break or get missing.

I fixed the air cleaner lid from popping off solved. I used a carriage bolt and wing nut.

What do you mean by putting the air cleaner on wrong? Do you mean the foam rubber element piece?

Yeah, sorry. just re read what I wrote.

I was referring to the accelerator cable adjustment. Just whilst your there, check its adjusted correctly. If you reach top speed ok, then no problem.

I'm not going to worry about it in the meantime. I think it's just the fact that the engine needs more time to warm up.