Just putting my engine case back together - after a protracted fight to get the flipping crankshaft bearings to sit right. What a nightmare - even after getting all the marks lined up and everything!

Onward, and here's my question: what are the recommended torque settings for the bolts and nuts when tightening the two halves of the engine case together?

My Citroen manual says "Connecting screws on cylinder heads and crankcase 1 to 1.3 da Nm (7.22 to 9.3 ft.lbs)"

Russek says 1.9 kgm (13.7lbs ft).

Why don't these manuals ever agree?

According to Haynes, it's 14 lbf.ft for the 7mm bolts & nuts around the periphery and 32 lbf.ft. for the 4 No. 10mm fastenings around the main bearings.
I have found 7mm threads damaged by over-tightening, so if the threads are lubricated, maybe best to use a 'slightly' lower torque. Maybe 12 lbf.ft?

That 7 to 9 lbf.ft. would be for the initial tightening of the 8mm thread cylinder head nuts, with 15 to 17 lbf.ft for final torque...

p.s. You will be slipping the front and rear crankshaft seals in before nipping things up?
Some folk reckon it's not best practice to do so, but it's always worked for me.

And it looks so easy on youtube....




ok. they want to sell many overhauled crankshafts..

Thanks for the info, chaps.

Ken, I did put the seals on before tightening. Did it intuitively - I'm surprised and delighted to announce! Seemed like the best way to proceed.

Ipgo, wish I'd watched that Burton video first! Makes it look such a calm and tranquil job. I was turning the air blue trying to get those bearing lugs to seat right!!

Anyway, all is looking good. I tightened everything up and even fitted the piston rings and got the barrels back on.



Next thing to do will be to service the valves. Which leads me to more questions:
- Anyone got any tips for how to loosen the rockers? Mine are solid!
- Also, can anyone guide me through setting up the engine for a bench test?

Bench testing; assuming engine is all together with ignition etc. - check there is oil in it! Bolt the gearbox to it (with starter motor), put on as much exhaust as u think the neighbours require, tape a coil to the oil filler, stand a petrol can next to it and drop the loose end of the bit of flexible petrol pipe you put on the 'In' side of the petrol pump in the can. Put a 6inch piece of wire with a female spade terminal on one end and the other end bare, on the starter solonoid. Stand a battery next to it and connect it up. Hold the bare end of the 6inch bit of wire on the starter motor terminal to spin it over. When the carb is primed put the spark plugs in, connect up the ignition and spin it again using the 6inch wire 'handy underbonnet starter switch' and listen to it purr!
At least that's what I do.
Alternatively speak to GaryTanya Bathtub, Friends of 2cvgb, on facebook, he has Engine Test Rigs: £199 with new starter, coil, HT leads etc

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Sounds good!

Is there any need to secure the engine to the surface it stands on?

Also, presume I should fill the engine with oil ASAP, yes? It'll probably be a few weeks before I get to do the test.

Making a testbench, put on a big oilpressure light and ofcourse connect it.. let the sparkplugs out (disconnect the coil also) and let the engine crank till the oilpressure light goes out (when you stop with cranking the oilpressure light may not light up for a second better a copple of seconds).... then put in the sparkplugs connect the coil and try to start the engine... good luck...

(This is the way I do it... Ken will probably disagree I guess (or come up with an even better plan)...

Try first with a handcrank to look if it runs free and light...

It is beter to secure it. But a good engine doesn't wander around much.. only a few inches when revving... but a fresh rebuild engine often starts on 1 cilinder (to much oil in the cilinders) and then it wanders like a wild bull for a copple of seconds...

can put the engine on an old tyre.

So far I have run them sat on the Workmate, so far none have fallen off! So far.
The tyre is a good wheeze tho, stop it moveing and bashing it's self on the floor during the '1 cylinder' phase - save me back lifting it on to the Workmate too!