Hi, I've been out grinding new heads and valves today with grinding paste and a grinding stick, but as I've never done this before could someone who knows about these things give me their opinion?

I've looked for examples on the web but haven't found any good enough pictures of what I should be aiming for, and none of 2cv engines.

The grinding mark on the inlet valve is higher up the angled face, nearer the spline, than the exhaust valve which is nearer the base of the valve face, is this normal?

Also the grinding mark on the second head looks maybe thin near the centre on the exhaust seat - or is it my imagination?


Picture 1: First head following grinding



Picture 2: First exhaust valve done



Picture 3: First inlet valve done



Picture 4: Second head following grinding



Picture 5: Second inlet and exhaust valve done



Do you think these are good to go now? This is a good time to make sure everything is in good shape before I start assembly!

Any help or hints from the experienced on the forum would be very greatly appreciated!

Many Thanks,
Chris

Chris,
looks OK to me (except that you've got your labels mixed up for pics 2 & 3. )

I wouldn't worry too much about the seat width looking narrow, since Citroen actually specify _maximum_ acceptable widths, which are 1.45mm for the inlet and 1.80mm for the exhaust.

If you put a dab of this stuff on the valve,
< http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Engineers-Blue-Mi ... 286.c0.m14>
then rotate it in-situ with the stick, that's one way of checking for even contact.

As a check on how they're sealing, I fit the valves & springs etc. plus spark plugs, position the heads upside and fill them with paraffin or diesel.

If there's any leakage, it's easy to spot...

ken.

Ken,

Thanks for the reply and sanity check, I'll see if I can get some blue from the motor shop. I like the upside down check with some fuel I'll definitely give that one a try once things are coming together.

Cheers,
Chris

My opinion is if you haven’t done this before very careful. I would send the heads away for professional reconditioning including new valves and guides. This depends on how many years of driving and kilometers. If valves have done past 150.000 kilometers I would replace them. The exhaust valve in particular has a bad habit of getting soft. Years of heating (overheating) can make the valve stem soft. Once cooked you can adjust the valve clearance often.
BTW how do you get the heads that clean?

Cheers

Viking bastard

aren't they new?

If you can't be bothered with Ebay, mark the valves with chalk
north, east, south and west. Turn the valves only 1/4 sideways and back again, no more and have a look. You'll see the contact places removing the chalk

Viking,

As Neil said, both the heads and valves are brand new, which is a change from my usual methods New barrels and Pistons too.

Many thanks for the tips though, and the detailed spec sheet! I will keep you posted on how this engine build is going. And if I hit any problems the forum will be the first to know...

There are Good Vibes about on this forum!

Cheers,
Chris

Now, not being a professional i was going to point out that the guides and seats look pretty new to me. But id take the advice of a proffesional!


And id guess they got that clean when they came out the box

(pulling your leg Mr Viking!)
But then someone has already pointed out -they are new

Sean

PS Chris a magic marker pen is a good subtitute for eingineers blue

But Sean,
with magic marker, I bet you don't get that highly decorative blue tint to your fingers and even your face after you couldn't find a tiny brush to apply Engineers' Blue to the valves.

On the other hand, just remembered about that carry on with woad...

ken.


[quote="Sean] PS Chris a magic marker pen is a good subtitute for eingineers blue[/quote]

Only after about 1/4 a bottle of whisky
Sean