I originally had dash lights, for some reason now I have none! All other electrics work fine, the three fuses on the firewall are all ok , a) are the bulbs easy to get at/change and check voltage at terminals? B) I can say it was possibly post welding this occurred and no I didn’t disconnect the battery beforehand, could I have blown all the bulbs on the display? B) when checking valve gaps do I say start with the inlets on one cylinder make sure the valve is fully open then on the other cylinder check the inlet and set then follow for exhaust? I have read that another bloke does it on dump as in both valves compressed on one side the the open valve on the other cylinder set and rotate until the other valve on the same side is fully open and then set and the do the same for the opposite cylinder. Only just set the in to .20mm and the ex to .25mm but it sounds like a skeleton in a dustbin having a wank now. Could it be I need to take the bean cans and check AGAIN please god no... many thanks for your help in advance half the carb farts seem to have stopped so many thanks indeed

Why not have a look at the detailed description a couple of posts above yours - "Setting Valve Clearance". It would seem a good place to start !

As to dash lamps - Can't help there. Hope you didn't blow up the alternator controller when welding and now its outputting too high a voltage !!!

Set as that thread, charging at 14.6 volts at the battery terminals

Not sure what you mean by dash lights!
Try looking at your fuses again and ensure they are making good contact.

I tend to do both tappets on the compression stroke on one side, and then do the other side. Not saying it right or wrong, its just what I do.

"I tend to do both tappets on the compression stroke on one side, and then do the other side. Not saying it right or wrong, its just what I do"

That's how I have always done them too, near the top of compression on each side.

Always disconnect battery and alternator prior to welding.

I had a quieter engine going it that way but my engine did not seem to give consistent readings when re checked.. I mean lights around instruments so I can read the speedo etc at night

I push on the tappet adjuster with a reasonably firm pressure on the screwdriver to try and remove slack from the pushrods etc. Then I turn it over on the starting handle and check them again.

My dash lights are getting worse too, or the bulbholder is sliding out of it's housing or the blub is getting burned black. It's 35 years old now. You can reauch them without disassembling the dash by taking out the battery and its tray. Then you can reach in behind the dash. It's not that much space but it works.

That's true on a LHD 2cv but TwoChevrons has a Dyane.
On a Dyane, if you get a mirror to look down the gap in front of the bottom of the speedo, you can see the little rectangular lens over the bulb that illuminates the speedo. You can just pull that up and it will bring the bulb with it. Putting it back in is a bit more fiddly, so the mirror will help.

Ah yes you are right, the dyane is a lot easier about the dash lamp..