I downloaded a shop manual a couple of years ago. I can't remember where I found it. It's not the Haynes manual but one written by a garage somewhere in the U.K. circa 1982. If anyone knows the one I am talking about. Seems this shop manual is over thinking this procedure. I can't remember exactly what it said.

I wanted to ask you guys this before I start messing with it since Citroen's are unlike anything I've ever worked on before. Just in case there is more too it.

I've done this on many cars and it's always been the same. Pull the handbrake lever about 4 clicks (sometimes depends on the vehicle), raise the rear end off the ground (front end in the case of the 2 2cv), loosen the lock nut and adjust the main nut until the wheels cannot be turned by hand. Then tighten the lock nut, release the hand brake lever and check to see if there is no resistance on the wheels.

On the 2CV there are two nuts on each caliper. My assumption is all I would need to do is loosen the lock nut and the main nut and use the same procedure as I have used on other cars. I just need to do this twice. Once for each caliper.

Is it as simple as that?

No.
The two M7 nuts on the cables are there to initially set the cable length and/or to compensate for stretch in the cables, not for wear in the handbrake pads/discs.
You set the cables so that, with the handbrake fully released, the backs of the (4) actuating levers are touching on the caliper stops without any slack in the cables, (so that even the slightest movement/tightening the of the cables would move them away from the stops).
Once the cables are set, you can then adjust the handbrake eccentrics to get rid of the free-play that may have resulted from wear in the disc and handbrake pads.
(Once you have set the cables correctly, they will probably not need resetting for many further eccentric-adjustments because the cables don't tend to stretch much unless the handbrake is often pulled on excessively hard, which is completely unnecessary with a handbrake that has been properly maintained).

Yep, I've used Haynes and after a few times you get a feel for it. This tool https://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/handbrak ... 135c8667ad (or make up something similar) helps.

P1010939 by Robndaisy, on Flickr

A lot of good stuff in here .

Good luck mon ami .

I always adjust the excentics with the car jacked up. Turn the wheel and adjust (top of the adjuster in direction disc) just til you hear/feel touching the blocks to the disc. Than hold the adjusters with some tool and thighten the small middle nuts. One after the other. The handle should be in the bottom position.

i was told by a wiser man than myself to pull the handbrake on 3 clicks and adjust the pads so that they touch the disc.

Generally speaking three clicks should be binding, five clicks locked. Seems to work for the 2cv, and the GS.

I've never been impressed with the performance of handbrakes on discs, certainly not 2cv's and the GS isn't that much better, even my Nissan Almera that winds the main piston out is not a patch on the 2cv front drum brake handbrake, and the ease with which it can be adjusted. But then I'm biased that way!

thats why the method of pulling it on 3 clicks and adjusting it so they touch the disc works..

I complete agree; My AK350 has far better braking performance than either of my disc brake cars, and the brakes need adjusting far less. The key is clearly taking the time and effort to set them up properly.

The problem is that the brake blocks aren't pulled back from the disc and always stay using away slightly.

True dat, Sam!