Another starting failure after a long run in cold -2degC weather. Checked coil temp, not hot, just blood warm. Swapped out for a spare coil and away she went. I have looked at the ECAS 'dry' coil and it says its ok for Contact Breaker systems as well as electronic.
Looked on the MEHARI - 2CV site and it says electronic systems only. Now I am making an assumptions that it is the same coil (ECAS / MEHARI- 2CV), so what gives. I am assuming that the electronic systems have a tight control on Dwell Angle whereas CB systems dwell is as best as you can set the points/ worn CB system.
Bob

Hi Bob
Have you checked your voltage at the battery with the engine running above idle. Don't rely on any Citroen indicators on the dash. A to high a voltage from the alternator may possibly cause the coil to get hot.

Other than that, if it isn't a dodgy connection in the circuit (ignition switch!) then a known good coil is probably required. When I had starting issue (same as you describe), a new standard coil resolved it. I soon when to an old lumenition kit after that, and the difference in running and starting was amazing.

But check your voltage as electronic ignition may not like to high a voltage either.

Thanks Roger, I will check it out on the next run. Ignition switch - I may even cobble a bypass switch to eliminate errors there. The engine does miss the occasional beat when tramping along at cruising speed - always has done, Never suspected the ign switch, thought it may have been carburation.
BobH

I installed a new coil last fall but only got one chance to check it out to see if it fixed my summertime hot start problem. This was the 1st week of October when it was around 85F/29C. I waited about 10 minutes to see if the car was any easier to start and couldn't really tell that it made much of a difference. It still required several seconds of cranking.

I started unraveling the wiring harness to fix a headlight issue but due to other priorities and being sick all winter, just got around to repairing the harness a few weeks ago. I'll post some pics of of my repair later.

I also discovered my car already have a 3-2-1 electronic ignition system.

I'm still convinced (at least my) hot problem issue has something to do with anti-pollution additives in modern gasoline. Perhaps the lack of lead.

The problem effects every car I own with a carburetor whenever the ambient temperature is above 80F/27C.

My assumption is the modern fuel has a lower boiling point and it just evaporates out of the fuel bowel from engine heat. I have not pulled the fuel bowel lid off any carburetors after 15 minutes to see what's going on.

The other theory is if the fuel boils, it ends up in the combustion chamber and wets the plugs which causes hard starting.

I added a cooling fan to my Yugo which blows air directly at the base of carburetor triggered by an 185F/85F fan switch mounted in the intake manifold. The only time I hear it run is within a minute after shutting the engine off. It will cycle on and off for about 1 minute every few minutes for up to 30 minutes.

I copied this idea which was used on Fiat 128s and X 1/9s and I've seen this same fan used on Nissan 280Zs aimed at the injectors to avoid heat soaking.

This fan actually does help the engine start easier in the summer. I even have an electric fuel pump on the car. That's why I'm debating on if fuel is boiling and wetting the plugs.

They won't get in the combustion chambers in a 2cv it has a hole in the manifold under the carburettor. Any excess petrol will spill out there over the engine. That part of the manifold is lower than the tubes leading to the heads.
Heating coils can be a problem. If you have 2 coils did you try to switch over to a cold one?

This is a brand new resin filled coil from a Harley Davidson motorcycle that was suggested.

Doesn't matter what brand if it is getting hot the ignition has to be adjusted it think. The 123 has a LED on it that has to light up when the 6mm peg enters in the flywheel. This as a first set-up.

It's actually an interesting topic, because the hot starting of a 2CV is troublesome! And I have no idea, and this thread shows it is difficult.

I experience the need for excessive cranking only after cuing with the engine idling. Typical in the cue to a worldmeeting But also in normal traffic or while waiting for someone at a store. If the engine stops in those situations, it might be an embarrassing amount of cranking required to get it going again. But not necessarily!
I have driven with different engines, different carburettors, different ignitions like points and 123, the engine service and the valves adjusted, plugs new and so on. Nothing seems to have an effect. Also I have a new original black coil. The car will always start, it just sometimes need a LOT of cranking.

And judging by the convoy of cars going together to the world meetings, it's the same situation for many of them. But some seems to not have this problem. So it is possible not to have it!!

I have stopped trying to figure this out, as the car will start eventually, and it does not happen often. But it is embarrassing. After 5 seconds of cranking, you start to turn heads, and often 10 seconds are needed. And a couple of tries.

My car has another odd thing I cant get rid of. Sometimes, it continues to run a little bit after I switch of the ignition. No, it's not just after a long hard drive. It can just as well be after a few minutes drive in cold weather with no load on the engine. It doesn't seem to be connected to temperature.
The ignition is spot on, the valves are spot on, the plugs are the recommended NGK ones. Have tried both the 6 and 7 ones. No difference.
I have given up on this one too. I just let go of the clutch when I sense it's happening to stop the engine.
The engine runs nicely otherwise.

I run it on leadfree 95. I cant really remember if switching to 98 did any difference, even though I know I have tried.

A have tried different carburettors, but both used ones, can it be something with the carburettors?

I once had a problem that turned out to be a no good sparkplug wire. Internally burned connector.

Have tried new silicone wires, and new original. No difference unfortunately.

I think it does have something to do with fuel. If I pump the pedal furiously instead of just flooring it, it seems to start quicker. As if it's lack of fuel that's bothering it. But I really don't know. It's been awhile since I tried to figure it out. I just crank it, and it always starts, eventually. And as I said, it doesn't happen often.

But it would be nice to discover the problem, just for the curiosity if nothing else.