View unanswered posts | View active topics It is currently March 29th, 2024, 9:48 am



Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
 Shock Absorber Washers 
Author Message
Firing on two.

Joined: February 27th, 2009, 11:56 pm
Posts: 105
Post Shock Absorber Washers
I'm just fitting new shock absorbers to my rebuild, I have a box of washers that have come from various A sries I have owned. far too many for my requirements. Can someone help with the sequence of fitting the washers.
Is it: Chassis mounting end, thick washer, shock, thin washer nut.
Axle mounting, thin washer, shock,thin washer nut?

Thanks in anticipation


June 15th, 2017, 11:52 am
Profile
Firing on two.
User avatar

Joined: March 5th, 2009, 6:23 pm
Posts: 2130
Location: Near Monmouth
Post Re: Shock Absorber Washers
2cv 1983 Repair Manual.

Attachment:
shocks.pdf


Looks like "Thick" ones both sides?

cheers
Peter


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.


June 15th, 2017, 1:26 pm
Profile
2CV Fan

Joined: December 6th, 2015, 12:09 am
Posts: 46
Post Re: Shock Absorber Washers
"Is it: Chassis mounting end, thick washer, shock, thin washer nut.
Axle mounting, thin washer, shock,thin washer nut?
"

As I understand it.. ;)

Yes to chassis end, but note that the recess in the thick washer faces the chassis mount, not the damper. The recess is there to provide clearance over the stud's inside fillet.

It is important that only the inner metal spacer tube of the damper mounts is clamped, and not the rubber itself, as that has to be free to flex with the suspension's movement.

Axle mounting : perhaps.. The large thin washer under each nut is a safety aspect ..in case the rubber bush shears - it prevents the damper end from dropping down onto the road. It is under each nut. But, where there is a suspension arm bracket / plate then no first washer is needed, only the thin one positioned under the nut.

So.., the first washer may be omitted or may be a thin or a thick washer ..according to alignment of the damper between the chassis and suspension arm. Some aftermarket dampers have a different length of metal spacer tube inside the rubber bush. So, pinch the chassis nut up to see if the damper aligns ..if not then shim front or back accordingly.


I hope you also realise that the damper's nuts should not be tightened up until the car is resting on its own wheels, or blocked up under the end of the axle arms.

The reason for this is : If the damper's nuts are done up tight when the arms are hanging down at a -35 degree angle, then when the suspension arms rotate back to horizontal (thanks to the car's weight) .. then the rubber in those bushes would be twisting / in torsional shear, which is why they prematurely fail. But if they are (correctly) tightened when the car is sitting on its suspension / carrying its own weight - the rubbers are unstressed in the static condition, and then have enough articulation when twisted either up or down, with the rotation of the suspension arm mount

Hope that helps.
Pete

NB. edited to correct my grammar !


Last edited by 2cy on June 15th, 2017, 2:30 pm, edited 8 times in total.



June 15th, 2017, 2:14 pm
Profile
Firing on two.

Joined: February 27th, 2009, 11:56 pm
Posts: 105
Post Re: Shock Absorber Washers
Thanks very much Pete. Very helpful.


June 15th, 2017, 2:20 pm
Profile
Firing on two.

Joined: February 27th, 2009, 11:56 pm
Posts: 105
Post Re: Shock Absorber Washers
Also thanks Subarupete. I got confused. Two Petes replying as I was looking for reply


June 15th, 2017, 2:22 pm
Profile
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Reply to topic   [ 5 posts ] 

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 96 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group.
Designed by STSoftware for PTF.