Thanks! I ordered some.

When my new clamps and exhaust paste arrive, I may give it a try. One thing that came to mind while trying to fit this new silencer on my car was I wish I had two other people to help me. One person underneath the car to hold the silencer up, and another person to hold one pipe in place while I held the other!

I ended up using my floor jack to support the silencer.

I'm not a strong guy so I have to get creative at times and not having anyone to help me when I need assistance most of the time.

On my Trabant, the front grill can be removed with only 2 wing nuts for easy access to the front of the engine.

Someone told me it was possible to lift the 80 lb engine out by hand. Then lift the 40 lb gearbox up with one hand and pull the axles out. Well I'm not that strong!

Here was my first attempt at pulling the engine and putting it back in.



I had to replace the freewheel device on 4th gear (would not engage) and the guy who repaired my gearbox did not get a cir clip back on so it grinded in 3rd gear.

So this time I tried a different method. The second time I dropped the sub frame, engine, gearbox and suspension and all attached together so I could unbolt everything on my garage floor instead of inside the engine compartment. That was easy. Getting the six bolts that secures the cradle to the chassis aligned using an engine hoist was the hard part.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd14 ... jnvsoz.jpg

But it sure made it easier removing 30+ years of dried caked on grease off everything!

Got my Burton exhaust saddle clamps and silencer installed yesterday. As you guys would say, they are the dog's bollocks! They seal great and easier to tighten down than the other type. No apparent exhaust leaks I can "feel".



I used that exhaust paste as recommended. I was even able to get the hanger bolts aligned with the support mount on the silencer.

As mentioned, the trick is to remove all clamps, clean up the surfaces with a circular brush, then install and hand tighten the clamps. Align the snouts on the heat exchangers with the cylinder heads. Then align the pipes after the heat exchangers, then go back and wiggle the pipes before the heat exchange to get the hanger mounts aligned. Then finally tighten the exit clamp.

Now I have a new issue. I'm not sure if it's exhaust related or now that the car is more quiet, I can hear noises I would not have been able to hear before.

When I push in the clutch or decelerate, I hear what sounds like a train horn off in the distance. And initially I thought that was what it was. Not real loud but enough to get my attention. But not all the time.

It sort of sounds like the release bearing/pressure plate noise or some of that sealing paste previously got into the exhaust. I can shake the "hotdog" silencer and here something rattle inside it. I can't find anything rubbing anywhere.

This is going to be hard to track down. I may have to let it get worse before I can figure it out.

Oh yeah. I might have to start a new thread but when I was pressure washing my engine compartment the other day, I damaged the cardboard dump tubes. Do those rubber dump snouts that Burton sells replace these things?

I don't reckon there is any harm in not running these dump tubes. It would just make the engine compartment a bit hotter.

burton clamps do look a lot like the original ones on the 50s 2cv...

I love those clamps, much better.

Those type clamps was used with DS, but little bigger ones. And same DS clamps can find from 70's Maserati's...

Guess wich ones are cheaper, even when they have same part number..?

I think I figured out why my 2CV sounds like a train horn in the distance. I shook the long muffler under the floorboard and it sounds like rocks in it. So I've added that to my wish list.

The baffles do fall off inside!