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Fuse block help.
http://www.international2cvfriends.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5870		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  turbofiat124 [ September 13th, 2016, 4:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Fuse block help.
As mentioned before, my 2CV seems to be a hybrid of some sorts. 71 Chassis, 600cc engine, disc brakes, Charleston paintjob, etc.

There seems to be wiring changes and several variations of fuse blocks used throughout the years. This would not be a concern if my car was not a hybrid. So I'm a bit confused.

The fuse blocks are quite groaty and needs replacing. The top fuse has to be rotated just right or the left hand tail light and pilot light goes out so new connectors and new fuse blocks are in order!

Here is a photo I took. I wiped the black paint off the wires with acetone. The color of the wires seems to match the colored sleeves except for two fuses which have just green wires going to and from the fuse holders.

Image

Top fuse block:

Green --------- Green --> (color coated sleeves are missing), left hand tail and park lamp
Red --------- Red ---> Right hand tail and park lamp
Blue -------- Blue ----> ?
Yellow ------- Yellow ----> ?

Bottom fuse block:

green -------- green --->
unused
unused
unused

I bought once of these universal type fuse blocks ages ago to use on my 58 Ford tractor:

Image

Ordinary I'd go with an ATO type which cured my Trabant's electrical issues but think I go with the glass type fuse block on this car with new connectors since it's in the engine compartment.

I was going to start pulling fuses to see which fuse did what but was getting tired and packed it up for the day.

Can someone identify this fuses do what and what amp fuses go in which fuse holder?

Thanks!
Author:  ken [ September 13th, 2016, 4:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
Before tearing the original wiring apart, wouldn't it be worth having a go at cleaning up the connectors in the fuse boxes?
If you pull the little plastic tags at the end of each fuse upwards, each 'blade' can be removed, its contact surfaces cleaned with a small chainsaw file, then coated with petroleum jelly and refitted...
Author:  AZL57 [ September 13th, 2016, 8:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
yes and the plastic parts can be put in the dishwasher. You seem to miss the fusebox covers?
Image
Author:  richardmorris [ September 13th, 2016, 9:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
Forget the chassis's alleged age. It has no bearing on anything apart from a ruse to circumvent the USA rules on importing cars. Twin fuse boxes means the car is from 1986 on. Your car isn't a hybrid. The engine number matches the vin date. It may have been repainted but that doesn't change the fact that it's a late 1980s Charleston.
Author:  ken [ September 14th, 2016, 1:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
Is this where the "plus 1" might be applicable?

Tbh, I had been a bit curious as to how a chassis could be pinned down to being of 1971 manufacture.
If the captive nuts for mounting a disc-type handbrake lever were not present, that would be a fairly reliable indicator.


richardmorris wrote:
Forget the chassis's alleged age. It has no bearing on anything apart from a ruse to circumvent the USA rules on importing cars. Twin fuse boxes means the car is from 1986 on. Your car isn't a hybrid. The engine number matches the vin date. It may have been repainted but that doesn't change the fact that it's a late 1980s Charleston.
Author:  turbofiat124 [ September 14th, 2016, 2:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
ken wrote:
Before tearing the original wiring apart, wouldn't it be worth having a go at cleaning up the connectors in the fuse boxes?
If you pull the little plastic tags at the end of each fuse upwards, each 'blade' can be removed, its contact surfaces cleaned with a small chainsaw file, then coated with petroleum jelly and refitted...


I actually I tried this using a small wire brush on a Dremel tool to clean up the fuse holder for the most offending circuit but it didn't help. Just based on my experience with fuse box in the past, I found it better to simply replace it along with the connectors.
Author:  turbofiat124 [ September 14th, 2016, 2:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
AZL57 wrote:
yes and the plastic parts can be put in the dishwasher. You seem to miss the fusebox covers?
Image


Thanks!
Author:  turbofiat124 [ September 14th, 2016, 2:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
ken wrote:
Is this where the "plus 1" might be applicable?

Tbh, I had been a bit curious as to how a chassis could be pinned down to being of 1971 manufacture.
If the captive nuts for mounting a disc-type handbrake lever were not present, that would be a fairly reliable indicator.


richardmorris wrote:
Forget the chassis's alleged age. It has no bearing on anything apart from a ruse to circumvent the USA rules on importing cars. Twin fuse boxes means the car is from 1986 on. Your car isn't a hybrid. The engine number matches the vin date. It may have been repainted but that doesn't change the fact that it's a late 1980s Charleston.



I'm starting to wonder if someone simply swapped VINs on this car. There are too many things on the car that seem as if would be too hard to swap from one car to another. I'm not sure when the 600 cc engine came about or when disc brakes were fitted to the car. But I think 1971 had drums.

The gearbox has "87" stamped on it in a circuit on the passenger side (RHD). Is that the year the gearbox was produced?

I did not talk to the "actual" owner of this car so I don't know it's history.

There were what was known as factory "refurbed" Trabants. Where the factory actually stripped the cars to the frame and used brand new later model parts. But we are talking about the DDR, I've never heard of 2CVs being factory refurbished.
Author:  turbofiat124 [ September 15th, 2016, 1:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
I'm not finding the headlamp fuses? Are these protected by circuit breakers?
Author:  AZL57 [ September 15th, 2016, 8:05 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Fuse block help.
i think they are not fused..
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