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Exhaust (re)fitting?
http://www.international2cvfriends.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5381
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Author:  smyth602 [ September 5th, 2014, 1:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Exhaust (re)fitting?

I fit a whole new exhaust just before the national and while it worked okay on the way down, there are little blows everywhere. Not knowing any better, I used exhaust paste but seeing as, well, EVERYONE seemed to tell me I should have used copper grease, I'm going to take it off and re-fit it, along with the new burton clamps I sold a kidney to get.

I vaguely remember reading something on here many moons ago by Ken saying to wrap the male joints either side of the torpedo with insulating tape, then smear over with copper grease to help it seal, and I figured i might try it as the Walker system I have seems a bit ill-fitting in that area.

Does this work? Doesn't the tape just melt into a plastic-y mess? I assume he was meaning the PVC electrical insulating stuff...

Author:  smyth602 [ September 5th, 2014, 3:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

ken wrote:
Warren,
best to avoid exhaust paste, I reckon.
Wrap the end of each pipe which fits inside another with insulating tape, brush them over with Copaslip and don't overtighten the 38mm U clamps.

The tape will help the joint to seal, also allows the parts to be separated easily, such as when you need to replace the swan neck (which will be the first part to fail).

ken

Warren wrote:
Fitted a new exhaust, I thought I'd done a good thorough job of it, but it's blowing a touch either end of the torpedo, despite using exhaust paste. Will redo it tomorrow :oops:


Found it!

Author:  ken [ September 5th, 2014, 3:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

Martin,
I forgot to mention that it's advisable not to over-tighten the U clamps.
If the pipes have been indented, that kinda limits the chances of them separating easily...

Ken



smyth602 wrote:
ken wrote:
Warren,
best to avoid exhaust paste, I reckon.
Wrap the end of each pipe which fits inside another with insulating tape, brush them over with Copaslip and don't overtighten the 38mm U clamps.

The tape will help the joint to seal, also allows the parts to be separated easily, such as when you need to replace the swan neck (which will be the first part to fail).

ken

Warren wrote:
Fitted a new exhaust, I thought I'd done a good thorough job of it, but it's blowing a touch either end of the torpedo, despite using exhaust paste. Will redo it tomorrow :oops:


Found it!

Author:  ayjay [ September 5th, 2014, 7:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

when u fit the burton clamps loosen the 2 fixing nuts either side of the front silencer first

Author:  smyth602 [ September 5th, 2014, 10:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

Thanks for the replies, guys. Ken, when you said insulating tape, did you mean the pvc electrical stuff?

Also, did the grips turn up?

Author:  ken [ September 6th, 2014, 12:13 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

Hi Martin,
yes, to both questions.
Common or garden insulating tape is enough to provide a 'slip' surface and seems to survive the heat of the exhaust well.
Ken
(My favourite Facom grips are now back in the toolbox, so many thanks... ;) )




smyth602 wrote:
Thanks for the replies, guys. Ken, when you said insulating tape, did you mean the pvc electrical stuff?

Also, did the grips turn up?

Author:  Norman [ September 6th, 2014, 1:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

ken wrote:
such as when you need to replace the swan neck (which will be the first part to fail).



Stainless Swan necks last 20 years at least !!!

Author:  Terry [ September 6th, 2014, 1:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

Norman wrote:
Stainless Swan necks last 20 years at least !!!


The whole stainless system lasts at least 26 years [IME] ....except for the cross-box,which was'nt available at the time I fitted a S.S. stystem on my [then,brand new] '88 2CV ... ;)
The main prob is the heater to cross box joints .....and the cross boxes available these days just dont seem to fit "quite right" :? :roll:.
btw ......a lot of guys on my motorctcle club are using B&Q "BBQ paint" on the exhaust pipes .....I dunno if it'll work on a 2CV cross box [s'posedly,they rot from from the inside too] ....but theres been no complaints so far from the guys in the M/C club.....I've given it "a go" on my 2CV anyway ... :| :roll: :roll:
best regards
T.

Author:  Vosper2004 [ September 6th, 2014, 1:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

I recently fitted a complete new exhaust, Followed the instructions, fitted everything losely and then tightened up progressively. I did use the paste but not the tape and managed to eliminate the blows.
The handbrake hits the crossbox pipe when released and I can't see any way of positioning it to avoid the problem. I bought the expensive clamps last time but didn't think they were worth the money as the regular ones worked better. The flanges on the pipes were too big to allow them to grip properly, they only really fitted the manifold to heater joint nicely.
Don

Author:  ken [ September 6th, 2014, 3:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Exhaust (re)fitting?

Don,
Walker crossbox?
See below...

Vosper2004 wrote:
I recently fitted a complete new exhaust, Followed the instructions, fitted everything losely and then tightened up progressively. I did use the paste but not the tape and managed to eliminate the blows.
The handbrake hits the crossbox pipe when released and I can't see any way of positioning it to avoid the problem. I bought the expensive clamps last time but didn't think they were worth the money as the regular ones worked better. The flanges on the pipes were too big to allow them to grip properly, they only really fitted the manifold to heater joint nicely.
Don


ImageExhaust & handbrake lever contact by slcchassis, on Flickr

&

ImageWalker crossboxes, old and new style. by slcchassis, on Flickr

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