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All about: 2CV suspension
http://www.international2cvfriends.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=485
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Author:  Joe [ November 30th, 2010, 12:54 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

beaten to the punch

Author:  louise2cv [ November 30th, 2010, 12:56 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

Also, for any loud "cracking" noises try re-torquing the axle bolts.

Author:  petitepoupée [ November 30th, 2010, 1:00 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

"are you rotating the cans?"
Haven't done so yet: this means jacking the car up to take the load off the wheels (axle stands under the knife edge region?) and whizzee whizzee,I guess...

And -er - où sont les bolts des axles, Louise, s'il vous plâit ? ;)

Author:  J-dub [ November 30th, 2010, 1:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

I would take the KE out every now and again to grease. One R clip and slid it out! Yes rotate can, should turn relatively easy but with a bit of friction!

Author:  petitepoupée [ November 30th, 2010, 1:17 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

Yeah - read somewhere that simply smearing grease as the Haynes manual suggests doesn't really get much into the inside where it really counts. James - or anyone - can you confirm the axle stand positioning? - I don't want to do any damage to the chassis in the process of jacking it up.

Author:  ken [ November 30th, 2010, 1:25 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

Geoff,
isn't DOT3/DOT4 synthetic brake fluid hygroscopic?
Do you really want moisture drawn into the suspension canisters? :(

If it's LHM you've used, that will rot the front end stop rubber buffers when it's worked its way forwards, most likely to happen during any serious 'offroad' activity...

ken

( For most work underneath, I'd put the axle stands under the axle bolt heads.
But if you're working on the axle bolts themselves, put the stands under those brackets where the dampers are mounted...)


petitepoupée wrote:
Thanks Joe - I put some spare brake fluid (it's rubber-friendly) in the cans a couple of days ago, pulled back the rear sleeves to get it in as I figure with the lean-to-the-front stance of the Duck, it'll work its way through the whole length of the cans. can't say I've noticed any dramatic improvement so far.
Cheers, Geoff.

Author:  petitepoupée [ November 30th, 2010, 1:29 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

It was DOT3, not LHM. I doubt it'll be any great drama, but it's done anyway.
Vegetable oil isn't hygroscopic? Just turns rancid as it oxidises?
Where are the bleedin' "axle bolts". Please.

Author:  ken [ November 30th, 2010, 1:43 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

According to Chris Stuart ( of sunny Perth) the best veggie oil is what Citroen recommended, due to its much higher resistance to oxidation in 'Aussie' temperatures.
On the other hand, in our maritime climate, a good coating of oxidised sunflower oil on the springs and other internal parts of the suspension canisters does work wonderfully well as regards corrosion resistance...

'Axle' bolts, underside of the chassis, 2 pairs for each 'axle', 17mm hex heads with locking tab washers, best to use a 6 point socket ground back as the bolt heads are shallow... :roll:

ken


petitepoupée wrote:
It was DOT3, not LHM. I doubt it'll be any great drama, but it's done anyway.
Vegetable oil isn't hygroscopic? Just turns rancid as it oxidises?
Where are the bleedin' "axle bolts". Please.

Author:  Xmas [ November 30th, 2010, 1:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

Here, Here, Here, Here, Here, Here, Here and Here.
Bolt heads are underneath :D

Author:  petitepoupée [ November 30th, 2010, 1:52 am ]
Post subject:  Re: All about: 2CV suspension

BEAUTIFUL!

Thanks Ken, thanks Xmas - may all your winters be mild ones: now I'm out to get under the Duck - catch up with you all soon :)

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