Yes, Pete Sparrow has them i think... my dad was going to buy them for my 4x4.
Is it the longer ones that make it more uprated?

Rus Ken
there was a batch of race springs that came out that were erroniously marked Front and Rear on the wrong springs if the marking was written on with a diamond burr( dremmel) that may be the case...we had no end of head scratching and conformation emails before i welded the cans shut

might be worth checking with Pete see if he remembers which way they were intended to go.

Sean

It was written in white tipp-ex or pen, it doesn't handle too bad, I might turn the cans around and see if it's any better/worse/different...

It'll definitely be different, the tie rods will be the wrong way around!

Shouldn't the shorter spring be used at the rear of the car?
In my 2cv it goes like that, I think.

Hello 2cv friends.

I am going to turn some arms for harry tomorrow, and whilst delving about in the shed I've pulled out a pair which don't have the shock mount plates on, but have the tin cover for the frotteurs, the plates are held on with 7mm bolts through the lugs, with a nut on the back. I assume the holes are tapped M9 or whatever size it is, for the shock mount plates to be fitted. Can these arms be fitted to a normal common or garden 80s 2cv? if they have a frotteur in, can it be removed and the telescopic damper mount bolted on? I've never fannied about with frotteurs so I'm a bit green to them. I'd have taken them to bits this eve but it's late!

I *think* they can be fitted but not the other way round.

I wait patiently to be corrected however!

Russell,
the difference between arms designed for frotteurs and those for hydraulic dampers is that those three mounting blocks welded onto the arms are thinner and smaller for the former.

Mind you, if the ones you've chosen have the frotteurs held on with nuts and bolts, I wonder if they're the later type and have been 'adapted' in the usual manner...

However, if they are the old type and it's just that the original M7 threads have been stripped, I'd consider reinforcing the blocks prior to tapping them out to M9.
( Or even M10, since M9 taps and bolts aren't that easy to find? )

ken.

Hi Ken, thanks.

I took them to work and turned them this afternoon, I noticed the blocks were smaller, so I ran a Hot weld around them, and drilled/tapped them to M10. One arm was an original Frotteur one, the other was a later one with M9 tapped holes.

Every day's a schoolday, I now know what a frotteur looks like, how it works and I never knew the axles were different either!

Good description of the spring canisters function Russell.
What do you lubricate them with?
I read in the Danish Citroen forum once, that LHM should do the job fine, so that is what I have been using.