petitepoupee,
you will find the bump stops on brackets welded to the side of the chassis, located between the two tubes through which the axle bolts pass.

Using the appropriate slotted shims, adjustment should be made to give 3mm to 6mm clearance between the rubber buffer and the arm stop.

Ken

Thanks Ken, and Viking ... we're off away for the Easter break and will have a closer look at the D*lly when I return. Yes Viking Peter, I was tempted to do the typical Aussie "bush repair" and bend/cut the sheet metal but really wanted to understand first the principle involved in suspension travel limitations.
The witness marks are still fresh, although the D*lly hasn't been on a Raid since 2008. Will report back after I've gone back into the young lady's mechanicals.
Cheers,
Geoff C.

Spot on, Knightley ... thanks to Ken's post I've at last found the rubber bump stop under the car (my, doesn't it help if one actually gets under to LOOK!) and it is obvious that the suspension is set too low as there is evidence of very frequent contact at that point. The other (rebound) bump stop looks as though it never makes contact. So now it's into it with the spanners...

i cant bring up the images russell, maybye they have expired, i,m just doing the suspension on a special and the images would be a big help!

I don't know how to get the images back, and I don't have them saved on a computer I can access easily as they're on an old pc at my parents house in their loft. I agree it does make the thread a bit pointless, but I'll see what I can do about taking some more. I am a bit too busy to go taking a car apart just for this at the moment though.

Sorry for the inconvenience!

drilling a hole severely weakens it pete, i have a pic somewhere of one that broke, the knife edge puts massive load on it

I had an engineer mate look at the knife edge set up on my 2cv, he found it very interesting to say the least.
He asked why not put a bearing there instead, then I can be sealed and/or greased for off road use...

Harley

uh ho here we go again

He didn't look at it too closely or see how it actualy articulates - the knife edge doesn't slide or move much in relation to the eye it just rocks. A larger diameter for the pin would introduce an element of sliding friction and that could cause more wear. The grease is there to reduce corrosion rather than lube any sliding, the wear of the knife edge and the eye are typical of "corrosion induced fretting"-or something like that, with small sharp striations rather than polishing.

I was expecting that. He did look at how it rocks, it was then that he understood why it is a knife edge and not a round pin, as you mention if it where a greater surface area it would wear much faster.
A bearing would be a period acceptable/understood application.

Anyone have any other examples of the knife edge concept in use?

Harley

used in weighing scales to reduce the friction to negligable