Hi,my previous posting about my first time kingpin rebuild threw up the subject of using a bead of weld to contract the worn holes.

I`ve rebuilt both sides, one was successful but one has unacceptable play in the arm.

I`ve decided to give the welding route a go instead of replacing the arm.

I just need some more details.

Do you have the kingpin all built up and shrink the arm around the new pin,or do you do it on an "empty" arm?

Do you grind the slots vertical or horizontal?

How deep for the slots?

Are the slots on opposite sides of the arm so as to pull equaly from both sides?

So many questions! but i feel i will only have one shot at it!

Thanks Andy.

Lost count of the number of king pins I have replaced and never once had a problems with the hole in the arm. What is unaceptable play. Most UK MOT stations fail king pins because they don't understand them. There needs to be some movement or the pin will stick in the bush and you will never turn the steering wheel.

Plenty of pumps with the grease gun.

Has anyone ever seen a king pin on a 2CV fail so that the wheel fell off? Not like Morris 1000's that did it all the time.

P

I've only seen one break, and that was at Spa last lear, on a Belgian spec modified arm which has a rose joint above the kingpin the other side of the driveshaft, it had broken, but IIRC went fairly unnoticed because of the top mount.

I'm not the most widely experienced, but never seen one break on a road car, but I've felt the car shaking about and skipping across the road under cornering because the pin was so badly worn.

There is 2 ways to do it

Cut a vertical slot with an an angle grinder to a depth of about 3mm then weld it with a mig at full setting slowly so there is plenty of penetration

Or cut a couple of grooves round the outside of the eye about 6mm up and 6mm down from the Face of the eye and weld as above

both times with the KP out

King pins fail with that "Belgain" set up. Seems to me if its not set properly it side loads the KP as the hub is turned. normally the KP is resisting shear forces.

Sean

Thanks for the advice,you know how it is,it seems so obvious when you`ve done it a few times!!!

I will post when i`ve had a go!

Hopefully it will be a success!

Andy

How long will it last?

I can't see why it won't last as long as the arm did originally.

I may be wrong though.

Why is it not the preferred method of dealing with a “worn out” king pin hole, world wide?
I’ve seen this done on some 2cv’s but later the problem reappears again. To me the only and correct way is to either replace the arm or fit oversize king pins

I don't see the problem myself. I don't see why you can't do it again if it does wear.

I'm not a kingpin replacement specialist, but this just crossed my mind.

I can imigian that when you shrink the hole as explained, the hole isn't perfectly round anymore. That may cause a smaller contact face/more unequal spread load between pin and hole, causing both to were (possibly much) quicker.