Any advise on how to waterproof a 123 EVO

Silicone the back joint, the alan head on the front and where the cables go in.

hi there,surely the unit is already waterproof
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm0BP99YJ38

The 123 I had fitted was not waterproof, as the PCB has holes which let in the damp.

However the DG unit is a different design and is more water repellant. Still need to follow previous advice.

The more I read about the various electronic ignition setups, the less bother changing points every once in a while seems to be. Everyone seems to put 123 and the like on as a "fit and forget" system, then spend all their time on internet fora asking about how they can make it work properly.

I fitted Lumenition to my '88 2CV in 1997 ....the only time its ever been touched since then was when Uncle Ken rebuilt my engine in 2009.
btw ......I dunno if its possible to give the 123 system the same treatment but I waterproofed my Lumenition with several liberal coatings of Waxoyl ......[which is how I "waterproof" the electrics on my "off-road/greelaner" motorcycle]....... just put lashings of the stuff all over every electrical connection and orifice.
Oh ......and a friend who I do a lot of "greenlaning" with swears by the same treatment to his 'bike .....except that he paints melted candle-wax onto all his electrical components...... just a couple of ideas

hth
T.

1-2-spark is waterproof (if you put the ecu at a dry place) the wires a 2m so you can put the ecu above the windscreen!! inside the car...... please don't roll over into a puddle.

But I'm using the 123 EVO on a Visa engine so the "points situation " doesn't apply . others mut have fitted 123 to their Visa conversions so how to do it pleas or is it just the obvious as already stated, for which many thanks i have already done that.

the 123 company must get a lot of the units returned if they let in water

I fitted a 123 evo to my Visa engine - the main problem is not with the 123 unit but by the adapter that fits into the end of the cam. I drilled two very small holes into the round plate (one each side to balance it ) and when you tighten the centre bolt put a small alan key in though the new hole and lock it onto the alan bolt that holds the back plate to the engine. Also you will need to drill and tap a 7mm thread into the engine - there are 2 dends where to drill but take care to be square and not too deep.
When you bolt the 123 in place there is no lip on the engine to hold it centre to the adapter so take your time to make sure it is right - otherwise the little magnets will hit the very small bolts on the back of the 123 unit and f--k it up.