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Toe Board Replacement
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Author:  subarupete [ May 31st, 2012, 4:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Toe Board Replacement

Complete beginner here with the thin metal of the toe-board.
Have removed the rusty toe-board by carefully drilling out all the spot welds.
Now the hard part, should I try to locate/hire/borrow a spot welder to fit the new item or attempt to puddle weld through the old drill holes.

Cheers
Peter

Author:  Little Louis [ May 31st, 2012, 5:01 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

Plug weld it, if you're going for originality (really?) it'll be easier than getting a spot welder. I just welded Freds with inch long beads separated by about an inch all the way round.

Author:  subarupete [ May 31st, 2012, 5:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

The ECAS TB,s are zinc plated or do they do a plain version

Author:  Russell [ May 31st, 2012, 6:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

If you get a spot welder make sure you get the right arms for it, the standard arms they're fitted with probably won't reach to do a toe board. I think chapman tried to rent one and couldn't find anywhere that did a 240v one, only three phase versions.

Author:  Sean [ May 31st, 2012, 6:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

if you have drilled out the spots on the body then use them to plug weld the new assembly in

if you have drilled the spots on the bit that you removed then you could if you can get one spot weld

2 methods to plugs, 1 set welder up as for normal and start on the centre of the back metal and run the bead as a spiral or till it fills the 8mm hole 2nd method ramp up the power to 100A and turn the wire speed right down hit the centre of the 6mm hole with the big buzzin arc till its a big flat spot

practice on scrap and practice more then just do some test practices ...you get the picture

the 2nd is almost indistinguishable from the resistance welds, the first needs grinding both need clamping tight which is pretty difficult in the bulkhead area.

neither will work if the 0,5mm bulkhead steel is pitted dirty oil soaked or have remnants of PU stone chip

its not the bulkhead but the lip under the hinge are mig spots the ones on the hinge are resistance welds
Image
bonnet hinge repair by Sean602, on Flickr

Author:  subarupete [ May 31st, 2012, 10:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

Thanks for the feedback Guys.
I will do some practice on the scrap bits

Author:  subarupete [ June 7th, 2012, 10:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

Advice Please.....

"A" post meets Sill (Or Not).
The lower part of the "A" post and the front part of the Sill are shot, what is the best way of repairing?.
The rest of the Sill is excellent.

Cheers
Peter

Author:  J-dub [ June 7th, 2012, 10:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

Ecas do a front repair section for the sill iirc?

And I think a lower A post repair bit too

Author:  Smiffy [ June 7th, 2012, 10:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

Sean wrote:


Thanks for the links and info, Sean. Just fretting over this job at the moment. Never tried it before...
Image

Author:  subarupete [ June 8th, 2012, 8:46 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Toe Board Replacement

ECAS do an A post repair, and I have a piece of Sill.
But which method to fix..... a Butt joint or Sleeve?
Any pointers very welcome.

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